ON BOARD THE " NILE," Tuesday, February 6th, 1872.
—Another tumbling night, and F., going on deck before breakfast, came down to warn me off ; for behold a real, true, glorious gale was blowing. We had left a crack open in our port-hole at night, and about 3.30 a.m. in popped a sea, cold-pigging me on the side of my head, and doing some little mischief to clothes, etc. I went with F. when I was dressed to the top of the saloon staircase. At that minute a small stay-sail broke away from its block, and as they hauled it down, we saw the wind split it right up. At breakfast a grand country dance of everything on the table took place : F.'s plate, well laden with half-picked turkey bones, skum across full against his opposite neighbour's portly waistcoat, overleaping fiddles and a dish of salt fish. Shortly after came a mighty thump against the ship's side which made me think, though I knew it was impossible, that we had struck ; but it was only a sea which proceeded to pour through the skylights souse on to my back ; cold pig the second, very chilly and surprising. Poor D. J. [FN: Dismal Jemmy .] disappeared from sight. After luncheon we again went to the top of the staircase, and I remained a long time, making the most of this my 1st sight of a storm at sea. The ship is said to behave beautifully, and indeed one can see that she does, even with inexperienced eyes. Looking forward to the bows, one could see her curtseying and bounding over the great hills and valleys of water, running away from the green monsters that pursued her : the sail set square and straining before the wind. While I was there, two great seas came sweeping over the decks, and plunging down the hatchways into the regions below ; then out shone a beautiful rainbow straight ahead of us. Below, it certainly is not very agreeable ; the mighty lurches endangering heads and limbs ; the screw getting out of the water and whirling and thumping ; and the ship giving long shudders now and then as if she really could not stand it any longer ; creaks, crashes, and roarings ad libitum. But I am very glad to have seen the glorious sight above. On the lower deck it is wonderful to look through the ports and see oneself under the sea every few seconds.
Friday, March 12, 2010
29Jan1872, Final Thoughts on Jamaica
ON BOARD THE " NILE " GOING HOME, January 29th, 1872.
—I carry away rather conflicting notions of the negroes. Sir J. C. Grant won't have it that they are lazy ; and indeed it does not look like it in Jamaica, where so many of the settlers do well, carrying their produce miles to market, and often looking thoroughly thriving and comfortable. On the other hand, in Barbados they don't work, if they can help it, more than three or four days a week on the estates, though this can only just keep body and soul together ; and they will get their wives to do even this for them if possible. These people don't seem to have any wish to make money ; so that they can just live they seem perfectly happy, and look so, it must be confessed. In St. Vincent we heard the same, and there they have a frightful amount of bankruptcy ; but I do believe a fair trial given in the way of promising higher wages to good continuous work might be found to have an effect. There is such jealousy on the part of the planters at the blacks becoming independent, that one does not easily hear more than one side of the question ; they delight in calling all the small settlers "squatters," though that word only properly applies to people living on patches of ground to which they have no title. I fancy that those who only own an acre do fall into lazy uncivilisd habits, being able to get a mere living out of the ground with little exertion, and nothing else ; but one can hardly doubt that those who own more are doing well, and improving, at all events in Jamaica. We saw one good stone house in two stories, with verandah, etc., on Mr. Cooke's estate, built and owned by a black man, and heard of similar cases. But tho' Mr. C. showed it off with some pride, he would not allow that one ought to take it as an encouraging sign ; but only as exceptional. As to old General Monro at Barbados, he is a frantic negro hater, abusing all squatters as lazy, selfish savages. When I remarked that one could hardly wonder at people's preferring independence when they could get it, and that in England one rather thought the better of a labourer who had raised himself, he said the negroes should have more public spirit, and should be willing to sacrifice their own interests to the general good of the Colonies ; and cited as examples they ought to rival the devoted public-spirited M.P.s in England ! ! ! (Not so very numerous either, I fear.) Now, with all my good opinion of Sambo, I think this is expecting a good deal of him, poor creature ; even granting that his continuing an estate labourer at a fixed wage to the end of time is the beau ideal for all parties.
—I carry away rather conflicting notions of the negroes. Sir J. C. Grant won't have it that they are lazy ; and indeed it does not look like it in Jamaica, where so many of the settlers do well, carrying their produce miles to market, and often looking thoroughly thriving and comfortable. On the other hand, in Barbados they don't work, if they can help it, more than three or four days a week on the estates, though this can only just keep body and soul together ; and they will get their wives to do even this for them if possible. These people don't seem to have any wish to make money ; so that they can just live they seem perfectly happy, and look so, it must be confessed. In St. Vincent we heard the same, and there they have a frightful amount of bankruptcy ; but I do believe a fair trial given in the way of promising higher wages to good continuous work might be found to have an effect. There is such jealousy on the part of the planters at the blacks becoming independent, that one does not easily hear more than one side of the question ; they delight in calling all the small settlers "squatters," though that word only properly applies to people living on patches of ground to which they have no title. I fancy that those who only own an acre do fall into lazy uncivilisd habits, being able to get a mere living out of the ground with little exertion, and nothing else ; but one can hardly doubt that those who own more are doing well, and improving, at all events in Jamaica. We saw one good stone house in two stories, with verandah, etc., on Mr. Cooke's estate, built and owned by a black man, and heard of similar cases. But tho' Mr. C. showed it off with some pride, he would not allow that one ought to take it as an encouraging sign ; but only as exceptional. As to old General Monro at Barbados, he is a frantic negro hater, abusing all squatters as lazy, selfish savages. When I remarked that one could hardly wonder at people's preferring independence when they could get it, and that in England one rather thought the better of a labourer who had raised himself, he said the negroes should have more public spirit, and should be willing to sacrifice their own interests to the general good of the Colonies ; and cited as examples they ought to rival the devoted public-spirited M.P.s in England ! ! ! (Not so very numerous either, I fear.) Now, with all my good opinion of Sambo, I think this is expecting a good deal of him, poor creature ; even granting that his continuing an estate labourer at a fixed wage to the end of time is the beau ideal for all parties.
25Jan1872, To be Remembered in One's Dreams
CONVN. OF S. PAUL. Thursday, January 25th, 1872.
—A day of days We got up at 5 and tried not to mind the fierce short storms of rain that kept pelting down, and sure enough all was bright when we set forth at 7, Governor and F. on mules ("the Colonel" and "Sophia") and I on a pony called no less than "Grace." We went up a valley whose mountain-sides were all that Kingsley described in "At Last," the special glories being masses of tree-ferns climbing nearly from top to bottom, groves of the splendid wild plantain (?) and other wonderful large-leaved things. The whole extent of wood and bush was all overgrown by lovely creepers which ran riot in all directions and seemed only to glorify what was dead or decaying, as well as what was living and lovely. We wound out of the valley on to a high narrow ridge, which opened to us an equally wonderful valley on the other side ; and as we went on, we got into the glorious thick of the vegetation, so that one had to push aside the long plantain leaves on either hand and ride under the shadow of the ferns. The track became truly surprising ; the rides near Craigton wd. have been highways ; and Sophia and Grace, being weedy creatures, gave out at the worst bits. I was therefore promoted to the Colonel and the gentlemen rode and tied as best they might. When we got upon the higher ground of the Souffrière it was odd to see tropical vegetation reduced to regular scrub ; the air chilly from damp (for we got into a cloud) ; nevertheless bewitching little humming-birds were to be seen, and we heard one clear note of a singing bird that might have been a thrush. At last and unexpectedly we came upon the great crater surrounded by precipitous banks of great height, clothed to the very edge of the basin, which was filled with still green water exactly like a sheet of jade. Beyond this, the cloud thickened, so that we looked in vain down into the Carib country ; and settled to turn back. Indeed we had seen enough to last one's life ; and the ride back was just doubling it. The Colonel was an extraordinary creature and took me down impossible rocks and perpendicular slides, to the admiration of all beholders. The last mile or two it got very hot ; and joyful it was to get back at 12, and enjoy tub and breakfast. Then the smooth delicious row back to Kingstown, diversified by a sweet nap. An urgent message came to Mr. Rennie [FN: Governor of St. Vincent.] at Wallaboo from Château Belair, imploring him to land on his way back ; so he and F. went ashore, where all the people were gathered in high excitement. Wonderfully pretty it looked, and to be remembered hereafter in one's dreams of fair and distant scenes ; the many-coloured group on the shore, with flags flying over them ; the village over-shadowed with palms ; the lovely deep green ravines and mountains beyond, and our little boat rocking on the blue water. As the Governor landed, the schoolchildren, who were all assembled, struck up "God save the Queen" ; how it thrilled through me, to see this loving loyalty for Her rule from these utmost isles of the sea !
—A day of days We got up at 5 and tried not to mind the fierce short storms of rain that kept pelting down, and sure enough all was bright when we set forth at 7, Governor and F. on mules ("the Colonel" and "Sophia") and I on a pony called no less than "Grace." We went up a valley whose mountain-sides were all that Kingsley described in "At Last," the special glories being masses of tree-ferns climbing nearly from top to bottom, groves of the splendid wild plantain (?) and other wonderful large-leaved things. The whole extent of wood and bush was all overgrown by lovely creepers which ran riot in all directions and seemed only to glorify what was dead or decaying, as well as what was living and lovely. We wound out of the valley on to a high narrow ridge, which opened to us an equally wonderful valley on the other side ; and as we went on, we got into the glorious thick of the vegetation, so that one had to push aside the long plantain leaves on either hand and ride under the shadow of the ferns. The track became truly surprising ; the rides near Craigton wd. have been highways ; and Sophia and Grace, being weedy creatures, gave out at the worst bits. I was therefore promoted to the Colonel and the gentlemen rode and tied as best they might. When we got upon the higher ground of the Souffrière it was odd to see tropical vegetation reduced to regular scrub ; the air chilly from damp (for we got into a cloud) ; nevertheless bewitching little humming-birds were to be seen, and we heard one clear note of a singing bird that might have been a thrush. At last and unexpectedly we came upon the great crater surrounded by precipitous banks of great height, clothed to the very edge of the basin, which was filled with still green water exactly like a sheet of jade. Beyond this, the cloud thickened, so that we looked in vain down into the Carib country ; and settled to turn back. Indeed we had seen enough to last one's life ; and the ride back was just doubling it. The Colonel was an extraordinary creature and took me down impossible rocks and perpendicular slides, to the admiration of all beholders. The last mile or two it got very hot ; and joyful it was to get back at 12, and enjoy tub and breakfast. Then the smooth delicious row back to Kingstown, diversified by a sweet nap. An urgent message came to Mr. Rennie [FN: Governor of St. Vincent.] at Wallaboo from Château Belair, imploring him to land on his way back ; so he and F. went ashore, where all the people were gathered in high excitement. Wonderfully pretty it looked, and to be remembered hereafter in one's dreams of fair and distant scenes ; the many-coloured group on the shore, with flags flying over them ; the village over-shadowed with palms ; the lovely deep green ravines and mountains beyond, and our little boat rocking on the blue water. As the Governor landed, the schoolchildren, who were all assembled, struck up "God save the Queen" ; how it thrilled through me, to see this loving loyalty for Her rule from these utmost isles of the sea !
23Jan1872, Rowing Past Château Belair
THE GARDENS, ST. VINCENT, January 23rd, 1872.
—After luncheon the Govr. took us off with him, and we went on board a rowing-boat and had a delightful row of 17 miles along the leeward coast to Wallaboo. Passed a lovely little town called Château Belair, which fired a salute (i.e., the Wesleyan schoolmaster popped off a musket) and hoisted a Union Jack in honour of the Governor ; so we pulled in near the shore and made affable bows. Landed at Wallaboo about six and walked up to a nice little house on a hill, which the absent proprietor had had put tidy for us. Its apsidal drawing-room looked out on an enchanting view. Bedroom's only disadvantages a swarm of ants all over the floor, and a handleless door.
—After luncheon the Govr. took us off with him, and we went on board a rowing-boat and had a delightful row of 17 miles along the leeward coast to Wallaboo. Passed a lovely little town called Château Belair, which fired a salute (i.e., the Wesleyan schoolmaster popped off a musket) and hoisted a Union Jack in honour of the Governor ; so we pulled in near the shore and made affable bows. Landed at Wallaboo about six and walked up to a nice little house on a hill, which the absent proprietor had had put tidy for us. Its apsidal drawing-room looked out on an enchanting view. Bedroom's only disadvantages a swarm of ants all over the floor, and a handleless door.
09Jan1872, Croquet Wanted Special Science
GOVERNMENT HOUSE, January 9th, 1872.
—Croquet in the evening on a lawn (?) in which the grass grows only in scanty ragged tufts ; when you try to break off a blade up comes the whole valuable tuft. It has been showery weather, and altogether the croquet wanted special science.
—Croquet in the evening on a lawn (?) in which the grass grows only in scanty ragged tufts ; when you try to break off a blade up comes the whole valuable tuft. It has been showery weather, and altogether the croquet wanted special science.
05Jan1872, Sir Briggs Shows Off Farley Hill
FARLEY HILL, January 5th, 1872.
—The Govr. showed off his wonderful shells and other sea-creatures yesterday. Sir G. B. bore us off, and Dismal [FN: Mr., afterwards Sir William, Des Voeux, Governor of Hongkong, whom she always called "Dismal Jemmy."], in the early morning, and we arrived at his house, Farley Hill, about 10.30. Odd to say, we were treated to an impromptu and highly regal reception : triumphal arches, all the population turning out, and general excitement. We are told the chief enthusiasm is over F. as "a Lord" ; a Lady being of course a comparatively humdrum being ; and disappointment seems to prevail at his wearing a panama hat instead of a gold crown. Greeted by My Lady Briggs and 3 old-maid sisters, two with rather knifey parchment-hued faces ; all very kind and pleasant. A bevy of mounted gentlemen escorted us the last mile, who drew forth two neat speeches of a minute apiece from Sir G. B. and F. Delightful cool house in only two stories ; drawing-rooms opening into each other with doorless doorways and the incessant warm breeze blowing everywhere ; wide corridor running round the whole.
—The Govr. showed off his wonderful shells and other sea-creatures yesterday. Sir G. B. bore us off, and Dismal [FN: Mr., afterwards Sir William, Des Voeux, Governor of Hongkong, whom she always called "Dismal Jemmy."], in the early morning, and we arrived at his house, Farley Hill, about 10.30. Odd to say, we were treated to an impromptu and highly regal reception : triumphal arches, all the population turning out, and general excitement. We are told the chief enthusiasm is over F. as "a Lord" ; a Lady being of course a comparatively humdrum being ; and disappointment seems to prevail at his wearing a panama hat instead of a gold crown. Greeted by My Lady Briggs and 3 old-maid sisters, two with rather knifey parchment-hued faces ; all very kind and pleasant. A bevy of mounted gentlemen escorted us the last mile, who drew forth two neat speeches of a minute apiece from Sir G. B. and F. Delightful cool house in only two stories ; drawing-rooms opening into each other with doorless doorways and the incessant warm breeze blowing everywhere ; wide corridor running round the whole.
04Jan1872, Impressions of Barbados
GOVERNOR'S HOUSE, BARBADOS, January 4th, 1872.
—Most affably received by the good-natured pursy Governor Rawson, and pleasantly lodged in a clean white temple of the winds looking out upon a very pretty garden. Sir Graham Briggs, with all his blushing honours fresh upon him, came here with us, and was beyond kind in seeing after our luggage and ourselves ; we drove with him in evening along the coast, and very refreshing and enjoyable I found it to have nothing beautiful to look at, only the pleasant curious sight, so utterly unlike Jamaica or Santa Cruz, of excessive cultivation and swarming population. The people are far more ragged than in Jamaica, stark naked children being common ; the numbers are such that they are forced to work for the lowest wages or starve, and thousands ought by hook or crook to be emigrated to S. Lucia or even Jamaica, so as to force up wages and bring about a more decent state of things. However, all looks thriving, and one can't pity nakedness in this climate as one would in England. There is a ceaseless cool breeze and the Gov. announced wintry weather, viz. therm. down to 81 ! Darling Mother Keble [FN: Her sister Lavinia, wife of the Warden of Keble.] 23 to-day.
—Most affably received by the good-natured pursy Governor Rawson, and pleasantly lodged in a clean white temple of the winds looking out upon a very pretty garden. Sir Graham Briggs, with all his blushing honours fresh upon him, came here with us, and was beyond kind in seeing after our luggage and ourselves ; we drove with him in evening along the coast, and very refreshing and enjoyable I found it to have nothing beautiful to look at, only the pleasant curious sight, so utterly unlike Jamaica or Santa Cruz, of excessive cultivation and swarming population. The people are far more ragged than in Jamaica, stark naked children being common ; the numbers are such that they are forced to work for the lowest wages or starve, and thousands ought by hook or crook to be emigrated to S. Lucia or even Jamaica, so as to force up wages and bring about a more decent state of things. However, all looks thriving, and one can't pity nakedness in this climate as one would in England. There is a ceaseless cool breeze and the Gov. announced wintry weather, viz. therm. down to 81 ! Darling Mother Keble [FN: Her sister Lavinia, wife of the Warden of Keble.] 23 to-day.
01Jan1872, News of the Prince of Wales
ON BOARD THE "ARNO," January 1st, 1872.
—England has just passed (as we trust) safely through a great and touching crisis. The English packet, the Nile, brought us letters and papers up to the 16th ; all are full of the P. of Wales ; the feeling most deep and universal. In many places, before the very worst, the National Anthem and "God bless the P. of Wales" have been sung with immense fervour ; business and festivities have been suspended everywhere ; thousands have crowded to read the bulletins issued every few hours, and any reassuring ones have been received with cheers. The Archbp. of Canterbury sent very beautiful prayers by telegraph to all parts of the country on Saturday the 9th ; the first great alarm was felt on the 8th, and the Prince, the Queen, and Prss. were prayed for in all churches and nearly every meeting-house on Sunday : one most touching thing is that the Fire-worshippers in India had special prayers for him. The poor little Princess has been watching and nursing night and day, and the Queen and Prss. Alice have been constantly with him. On Sunday the 10th there was a slight improvement and the Prss. wrote to the Sandringham clergyman in these words : "My husband is better, and I am coming to church. I must watch with my husband, and therefore must leave before the end of the service. Cannot you say a few words for him in prayer early in the service, that I may join with you in prayer for him?" She just crept into church, stayed till the Litany began. Certain wretched Republican addresses have been summarily extinguished by the roughest means ; Odger has been pelted and bonneted, and disloyal speeches drowned by the National Anthem. But indeed the extreme Radicals have mostly shown good and respectful feeling, like the rest of the country. Ireland is full of sympathy. There was a superstitious fear about the 14th proving the fatal day, it being the anniversary of the P. Consort's death 10 years ago ; and the poor P. of Wales passed it in a struggle between life and death : bronchitis came on a day or two before and he was in constant imminent danger of choking. Towds. the morning of the 15th, however, sickness seems to have relieved him, he was able to sleep, and slow improvement set in. Thank God.
—England has just passed (as we trust) safely through a great and touching crisis. The English packet, the Nile, brought us letters and papers up to the 16th ; all are full of the P. of Wales ; the feeling most deep and universal. In many places, before the very worst, the National Anthem and "God bless the P. of Wales" have been sung with immense fervour ; business and festivities have been suspended everywhere ; thousands have crowded to read the bulletins issued every few hours, and any reassuring ones have been received with cheers. The Archbp. of Canterbury sent very beautiful prayers by telegraph to all parts of the country on Saturday the 9th ; the first great alarm was felt on the 8th, and the Prince, the Queen, and Prss. were prayed for in all churches and nearly every meeting-house on Sunday : one most touching thing is that the Fire-worshippers in India had special prayers for him. The poor little Princess has been watching and nursing night and day, and the Queen and Prss. Alice have been constantly with him. On Sunday the 10th there was a slight improvement and the Prss. wrote to the Sandringham clergyman in these words : "My husband is better, and I am coming to church. I must watch with my husband, and therefore must leave before the end of the service. Cannot you say a few words for him in prayer early in the service, that I may join with you in prayer for him?" She just crept into church, stayed till the Litany began. Certain wretched Republican addresses have been summarily extinguished by the roughest means ; Odger has been pelted and bonneted, and disloyal speeches drowned by the National Anthem. But indeed the extreme Radicals have mostly shown good and respectful feeling, like the rest of the country. Ireland is full of sympathy. There was a superstitious fear about the 14th proving the fatal day, it being the anniversary of the P. Consort's death 10 years ago ; and the poor P. of Wales passed it in a struggle between life and death : bronchitis came on a day or two before and he was in constant imminent danger of choking. Towds. the morning of the 15th, however, sickness seems to have relieved him, he was able to sleep, and slow improvement set in. Thank God.
20Dec1871, The Most Dreadful Evening
GIDDY HALL, Wednesday, December 20th, 1871.
—Up among the hills again to (Blank) Hall in a lovely situation ; but a horrible fate was ours—our host, Mr. (Blank), a coarse-looking man, received us at 6, so drunk that he could not speak plain. Mercifully another Farquharson and wife, nice people, dined and kept things decent ; but it was the most dreadful evening I ever underwent. Thank God I have never before seen a gentleman in such a condition ; it gives me a horror and creep beyond words.
—Up among the hills again to (Blank) Hall in a lovely situation ; but a horrible fate was ours—our host, Mr. (Blank), a coarse-looking man, received us at 6, so drunk that he could not speak plain. Mercifully another Farquharson and wife, nice people, dined and kept things decent ; but it was the most dreadful evening I ever underwent. Thank God I have never before seen a gentleman in such a condition ; it gives me a horror and creep beyond words.
18Dec1871, To Work or Be Independent
Monday, December 18th, 1871.
—These little houses are very primitive : one sleeps under unceiled shingle roofs, with unglazed windows fitted only with jalousies ; and these and all the other arrangements make them delightfully cool. We hear various views and opinions. Mr. Royes does without coolies, and is frantic at the proposal to defray a larger proportion than is now defrayed of the expenses of immigration, out of general taxation. He manages his negro population with peculiar tact apparently, for he gets them to work for him all the year round ; how, is a mystery, or indeed how anybody gets any regular work done for wages ; the negroes being able to live even on small acre or half-acre freehold plots ; and to do well on larger ones, which they seem able to buy at a cheaper rate than they can rent them. This must be a great nuisance to the owners of large estates, whose sugar spoils at certain seasons if kept waiting ; but I don't see how they can expect people to work for them who can be independent. Mr. Kerr and Mr. Cooke go in for coolies ; and Mrs. K. has a darling pretty little dot of an Indian boy of 8 in training for a house servant ; he waited famously and seemed as tractable as an angel. The coolies keep quite separate from the negroes ; when they are of high caste, they are troublesome from their customs, but low-caste ones seem only to object to having anything to do with beef, and their children gradually get over this. No regular attempt is made at Christianizing them, but they are glad to be educated by whites. One instance we have heard of a coolie marrying a brown girl.
—These little houses are very primitive : one sleeps under unceiled shingle roofs, with unglazed windows fitted only with jalousies ; and these and all the other arrangements make them delightfully cool. We hear various views and opinions. Mr. Royes does without coolies, and is frantic at the proposal to defray a larger proportion than is now defrayed of the expenses of immigration, out of general taxation. He manages his negro population with peculiar tact apparently, for he gets them to work for him all the year round ; how, is a mystery, or indeed how anybody gets any regular work done for wages ; the negroes being able to live even on small acre or half-acre freehold plots ; and to do well on larger ones, which they seem able to buy at a cheaper rate than they can rent them. This must be a great nuisance to the owners of large estates, whose sugar spoils at certain seasons if kept waiting ; but I don't see how they can expect people to work for them who can be independent. Mr. Kerr and Mr. Cooke go in for coolies ; and Mrs. K. has a darling pretty little dot of an Indian boy of 8 in training for a house servant ; he waited famously and seemed as tractable as an angel. The coolies keep quite separate from the negroes ; when they are of high caste, they are troublesome from their customs, but low-caste ones seem only to object to having anything to do with beef, and their children gradually get over this. No regular attempt is made at Christianizing them, but they are glad to be educated by whites. One instance we have heard of a coolie marrying a brown girl.
17Dec1871, Old Slave-Holder Contempt
HERMITAGE, December 17th, 1871.
—These people are very kind and pleasant, if only they wd. not (some of them) talk of the blacks with the true old slave-holder sort of contempt : whether justified or not by facts, it comes with the worst of grace from any English people, whose forefathers have most of the evils to answer for, having held the poor creatures enslaved, and forbidden their education.
—These people are very kind and pleasant, if only they wd. not (some of them) talk of the blacks with the true old slave-holder sort of contempt : whether justified or not by facts, it comes with the worst of grace from any English people, whose forefathers have most of the evils to answer for, having held the poor creatures enslaved, and forbidden their education.
16Dec1871, Discussing Gov. Eyre
ORANGE VALLEY, December 16th, 1871.
—At dinner (which was very good) Mr. Kerr broke into some excitement and much perspiration abt. Gov. Eyre : all the planters strongly side with him as far as we have seen ; Mr. Royes alone allowing with any candour that the violent measures went on too long. Mr. K. cd. say nothing to the query why 400 blacks were to be put to death in return for 20 whites and after the Govr.'s own official declaration that the rising was quelled : a pause ensued, and he cd. only repeat that the Govr. has saved all the white lives in the Colony. I can't help a creep at the evident implication that 400 blacks may well die in revenge for 20 whites : it reminds one of the expression of Legree in "Uncle Tom's Cabin" : "After all, what a fuss for a dead nigger !"
—At dinner (which was very good) Mr. Kerr broke into some excitement and much perspiration abt. Gov. Eyre : all the planters strongly side with him as far as we have seen ; Mr. Royes alone allowing with any candour that the violent measures went on too long. Mr. K. cd. say nothing to the query why 400 blacks were to be put to death in return for 20 whites and after the Govr.'s own official declaration that the rising was quelled : a pause ensued, and he cd. only repeat that the Govr. has saved all the white lives in the Colony. I can't help a creep at the evident implication that 400 blacks may well die in revenge for 20 whites : it reminds one of the expression of Legree in "Uncle Tom's Cabin" : "After all, what a fuss for a dead nigger !"
15Dec1871, Market Day
MAHOGANY HALL, Friday, December 15th, 1871.
—We met large numbers of well-to-do well-dressed black people streaming down the mountain with loads of fruit, yams, plantains, bananas, etc., on their heads or on mules, it being market day ; all of them, I believe, small freeholders. What I like in the people is their cheerful, friendly civility : "Good marnin', missis Good marnin', Squire !" (to Mr. F. [FN: A Mr. Fisher, their host.]) on all occasions.
—We met large numbers of well-to-do well-dressed black people streaming down the mountain with loads of fruit, yams, plantains, bananas, etc., on their heads or on mules, it being market day ; all of them, I believe, small freeholders. What I like in the people is their cheerful, friendly civility : "Good marnin', missis Good marnin', Squire !" (to Mr. F. [FN: A Mr. Fisher, their host.]) on all occasions.
12Dec1871, A Day at the Races
Tuesday, December 12th, 1871.
—Came down with the Governor to Kingston for the races ; rather funny my seeing my 1st race in Jamaica ! The barefooted jockeys ride like monkeys and lash the unhappy horses furiously the whole time. The sight was worth coming for of the merry, gaudy swarms of people ; the blackest and ugliest women being sure to be arrayed in yellow, green, and red, with absurd little hats and woolly chignons. There were various small rows and one broken head ; but not a drunken person to be seen. Good old Capt. Cooper and his sister gave us a handsome luncheon. We were surprised at the absence of anything like state ; but Sir J. can't abide it ; he drove into the town in the usual rattletrap, buggy-like carriage and there was no reception ; only the band struck up "God save the Queen" as he walked out of the stand. The dear old music was pathetic to hear, for, as we reached the ground, a telegram was given to the Governor announcing that the Prince of Wales's life was despaired of yesterday. A bewildering and awful event.
—Came down with the Governor to Kingston for the races ; rather funny my seeing my 1st race in Jamaica ! The barefooted jockeys ride like monkeys and lash the unhappy horses furiously the whole time. The sight was worth coming for of the merry, gaudy swarms of people ; the blackest and ugliest women being sure to be arrayed in yellow, green, and red, with absurd little hats and woolly chignons. There were various small rows and one broken head ; but not a drunken person to be seen. Good old Capt. Cooper and his sister gave us a handsome luncheon. We were surprised at the absence of anything like state ; but Sir J. can't abide it ; he drove into the town in the usual rattletrap, buggy-like carriage and there was no reception ; only the band struck up "God save the Queen" as he walked out of the stand. The dear old music was pathetic to hear, for, as we reached the ground, a telegram was given to the Governor announcing that the Prince of Wales's life was despaired of yesterday. A bewildering and awful event.
11Dec1871, Too English
Monday, December 11th, 1871.
—Our only quarrel with the life in this lovely fairyland is that they treat one in too English a fashion : English hours and English food and English dinner parties at 8 ! We were 12 at dinner to-night ; however, one is glad to see people and pick their brains. Mr. Brooks took us to see the school, a nice little building, with a view of views from its open door, and delightful air coming thro' the unglazed jalousied windows. The creatures sat all round the walls—black, brown, coffee-colour, yellow, sallow, white ; but the quite black much predominate, and are very comical and rather bewitching at 3 or 4 arrayed in one skimp white garment, with a bright handkerchief round their noddles. The schoolmaster (a black one trained at Mico) seemed both modest and intelligent ; the reading and writing of the best children were quite up to an English average, and the arithmetic not bad. They say there is no difficulty in getting the parents to send their children or to pay the 1d. a week fee ; but industrial teaching is only just beginning to go down, as they say "Pickaninny no slave—no learn to work."
—Our only quarrel with the life in this lovely fairyland is that they treat one in too English a fashion : English hours and English food and English dinner parties at 8 ! We were 12 at dinner to-night ; however, one is glad to see people and pick their brains. Mr. Brooks took us to see the school, a nice little building, with a view of views from its open door, and delightful air coming thro' the unglazed jalousied windows. The creatures sat all round the walls—black, brown, coffee-colour, yellow, sallow, white ; but the quite black much predominate, and are very comical and rather bewitching at 3 or 4 arrayed in one skimp white garment, with a bright handkerchief round their noddles. The schoolmaster (a black one trained at Mico) seemed both modest and intelligent ; the reading and writing of the best children were quite up to an English average, and the arithmetic not bad. They say there is no difficulty in getting the parents to send their children or to pay the 1d. a week fee ; but industrial teaching is only just beginning to go down, as they say "Pickaninny no slave—no learn to work."
08Dec1871, A Coffee Plantation
CRAIGTON, Friday, December 8th, 1871.
—Capt. L. rode with us to Middleton, a coffee plantation of the Duke of Buckingham's, and we saw the clean, pleasant process of preparing the berry. Strings of ladies with attendant gentlemen were going goose-file down the precipitous bridle-paths in correct Rotten Row get-up, chimney-pots and all, on their way to a ball. I felt sadly unfashionable in my short serge habit and loose jacket ; but 'twas surely more sensible. The Governor is very fond of his garden, and showed off an Amherstia with great pride ; the only one he has got to grow here.
—Capt. L. rode with us to Middleton, a coffee plantation of the Duke of Buckingham's, and we saw the clean, pleasant process of preparing the berry. Strings of ladies with attendant gentlemen were going goose-file down the precipitous bridle-paths in correct Rotten Row get-up, chimney-pots and all, on their way to a ball. I felt sadly unfashionable in my short serge habit and loose jacket ; but 'twas surely more sensible. The Governor is very fond of his garden, and showed off an Amherstia with great pride ; the only one he has got to grow here.
05Dec1871, First Day in Kingston
KINGSTON, Tuesday, December 5th, 1871.
—We drove up to Capt. Cooper's to hear what we had better go and see, and he sent us a glorious drive down by the sea-coast. The sun too hot to be borne without shade, though we got back by 9.30 ; but moving through the air we were quite cool and the beauty was indescribable.
The first thing that struck one all of a heap was the common roadside hedges being made of huge cacti ! We saw a humming-bird. Coming home to breakfast (which didn't come off till past 11, for we did our drive on a cup of coffee and a banana), we got into a state of mind at hearing nothing from the Governor, to whom we sent our letters of introduction yesterday ; however, at 12 a delightful A.D.C. turned up of the name of Capt. Lanyon [FN: Afterwards Sir Owen Lanyon.], who proved to have been a Bromsgrove boy and to have played formerly in the great Stourbridge and Bromsgrove matches agst various brothers of mine, and to have heard of the famous Lyttelton 11 match ! He took possession of us, and carried us off to see the Lunatic Asylum and Penitentiary. The Asylum the most admirable thing I ever saw, under Dr. Allen, who found it in '64 in the most fearful state of filth and mismanagement and has got it into perfect order. Thirty-seven per cent. of the patients are cured, though only dangerous maniacs are admitted : everyone does work of some sort or other, and so much money is made thereby that the whole cost per head a week, including every expense, is 7s. and a few pence. We saw them at dinner, men and women in the same shed at separate tables, waited upon by patients, with perfect order and quiet : Grace beautifully sung and most touching to hear. No punishments, no padded rooms ; the most violent are put for a short time when they break out into railed spaces in the open air, and that is all the physical restraint used.
Captain Lanyon after this packt off Shepherd and the luggage in a carriage (N.B. we ought only to have brought a portmanteau between us in the way of heavy luggage), and we shortly followed in another and drove off to the mountains. After mounting for an hour, we got upon horses that were waiting for us and rode the rest of the way, about 2½ miles. It is quite impossible to describe this wonderful and glorious ride, but I do trust we shall never forget it : the great crumpled mountain-spurs clothed with astonishing vegetation from base to summit, the splendid colouring, the delicious air, and then soft night-fall and fireflies. The luggage went up this last stage on the heads of negroes ! At last we came into a clean little bungalow of a house all open doors and windows, and were kindly received by Sir John Grant, a big nice Scotchman. Civilised dressing and dinner very nice ! The only other guests are certain Hutchins's ; he came about irrigation business.
—We drove up to Capt. Cooper's to hear what we had better go and see, and he sent us a glorious drive down by the sea-coast. The sun too hot to be borne without shade, though we got back by 9.30 ; but moving through the air we were quite cool and the beauty was indescribable.
The first thing that struck one all of a heap was the common roadside hedges being made of huge cacti ! We saw a humming-bird. Coming home to breakfast (which didn't come off till past 11, for we did our drive on a cup of coffee and a banana), we got into a state of mind at hearing nothing from the Governor, to whom we sent our letters of introduction yesterday ; however, at 12 a delightful A.D.C. turned up of the name of Capt. Lanyon [FN: Afterwards Sir Owen Lanyon.], who proved to have been a Bromsgrove boy and to have played formerly in the great Stourbridge and Bromsgrove matches agst various brothers of mine, and to have heard of the famous Lyttelton 11 match ! He took possession of us, and carried us off to see the Lunatic Asylum and Penitentiary. The Asylum the most admirable thing I ever saw, under Dr. Allen, who found it in '64 in the most fearful state of filth and mismanagement and has got it into perfect order. Thirty-seven per cent. of the patients are cured, though only dangerous maniacs are admitted : everyone does work of some sort or other, and so much money is made thereby that the whole cost per head a week, including every expense, is 7s. and a few pence. We saw them at dinner, men and women in the same shed at separate tables, waited upon by patients, with perfect order and quiet : Grace beautifully sung and most touching to hear. No punishments, no padded rooms ; the most violent are put for a short time when they break out into railed spaces in the open air, and that is all the physical restraint used.
Captain Lanyon after this packt off Shepherd and the luggage in a carriage (N.B. we ought only to have brought a portmanteau between us in the way of heavy luggage), and we shortly followed in another and drove off to the mountains. After mounting for an hour, we got upon horses that were waiting for us and rode the rest of the way, about 2½ miles. It is quite impossible to describe this wonderful and glorious ride, but I do trust we shall never forget it : the great crumpled mountain-spurs clothed with astonishing vegetation from base to summit, the splendid colouring, the delicious air, and then soft night-fall and fireflies. The luggage went up this last stage on the heads of negroes ! At last we came into a clean little bungalow of a house all open doors and windows, and were kindly received by Sir John Grant, a big nice Scotchman. Civilised dressing and dinner very nice ! The only other guests are certain Hutchins's ; he came about irrigation business.
Wednesday, March 10, 2010
01Dec1871, Elbe: Endless Novelty and Wonder
Friday, December lst, 1871.
—While it was still too dark to make out anything clearly, the breeze brought a delightful aromatic smell to us, like the dear Great House [FN: I.e., of course, the great Hot-house.] at Chatsworth, and what a thought, that we are coming into a region that is all Great House ! .. . Feasted our eyes on the endless novelty and wonder of everything. Black babies and children with nothing on but tiny white shirts. Some of them black, hideous, and ape-like enough to put Darwin into ecstasies ; but others have very nice faces.
—While it was still too dark to make out anything clearly, the breeze brought a delightful aromatic smell to us, like the dear Great House [FN: I.e., of course, the great Hot-house.] at Chatsworth, and what a thought, that we are coming into a region that is all Great House ! .. . Feasted our eyes on the endless novelty and wonder of everything. Black babies and children with nothing on but tiny white shirts. Some of them black, hideous, and ape-like enough to put Darwin into ecstasies ; but others have very nice faces.
28Nove1871, Elbe: Magnets and the Compass
Tuesday, November 28th, 1871.
—The excellent Captain told me the most bewildering things abt. the compass and the effect produced upon the needle by the iron of the ship : the newest dodge to counteract it is putting 2 magnets at the foot of each compass-stand at right angles to each other. Exactly like conscience striving against temptation ! and like it, alack ! in being only an imperfect safeguard.
—The excellent Captain told me the most bewildering things abt. the compass and the effect produced upon the needle by the iron of the ship : the newest dodge to counteract it is putting 2 magnets at the foot of each compass-stand at right angles to each other. Exactly like conscience striving against temptation ! and like it, alack ! in being only an imperfect safeguard.
25Nov1871, Elbe: Rocked All Day
Saturday, November 25th, 1871.
—Rocked all day in smooth waters and indescribable soft loveliness. The sunset from the bows never to be forgotten, the gorgeous colour semi-circling the placid sea ; the full moon on the other side silvering the whole atmosphere and bringing great diamonds out of the rippling waves ; the deep softness of the night advancing over the immense vault and folding like wings over the western glory, while, wherever the moon was not all-prevailing, the stars burned and throbbed. All the time the ship's motion was hardly perceptible, and yet she was pressing onward with mighty resistless power as if into the very heart of the sunset. This day and night alone is almost worth coming for.
—Rocked all day in smooth waters and indescribable soft loveliness. The sunset from the bows never to be forgotten, the gorgeous colour semi-circling the placid sea ; the full moon on the other side silvering the whole atmosphere and bringing great diamonds out of the rippling waves ; the deep softness of the night advancing over the immense vault and folding like wings over the western glory, while, wherever the moon was not all-prevailing, the stars burned and throbbed. All the time the ship's motion was hardly perceptible, and yet she was pressing onward with mighty resistless power as if into the very heart of the sunset. This day and night alone is almost worth coming for.
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