Tuesday, November 03, 2009

25Mar1868, Dizzy's Party for the Shaky Liberals

LONDON, March 25th, 1868.
Dizzy gives a grand party tonight for the Prince and Princess ; is said to ask only such Liberals as are shaky ! N.B. We are not asked.

19Mar1868, A Wonderful Set of Frumps

LONDON, March 19th, 1868.
—We dined with the Carews, meeting a wonderful set of frumps, but it wasn't very bad.

18Mar1868, A Workhouse and a Drum

LONDON, March 18th, 1868.
—We went to the East "by sea," as Atie. P. calls it, viz., embarking at Hungerford and landing at the Tunnel ; then conducted to the workhouse by a dirty little boy who was enchanted with a bit of bread and butter out of my basket in payment. . . . Dined at the Gladstones' ; drum, to which came Lord Dizzy !—he will be that next, I suppose. It was a sight to see him chaffing Agnes !

17Mar1868, Auntie P's Orphanage

LONDON, March 17th, 1868.
—Yesterday at the L. House meeting, a little statement drawn up by Caroline Smith and me about Auntie P.'s orphanage was read : I had hardly realised before what a gallant good work it was. She took over 150 poor tinies straight to her arms ; all orphans and many weak after cholera themselves ; all friendless and without even clothes on their poor little bodies. Of these not one has died at the Home, which she got in a hurry for them at Clapton ; and she has provided for a great many in different ways ; but 57 remain on her hands.

08Mar1868, Lou's Baby

LONDON, March 8th, 1868.
—Lou was promoted to a sofa, and was "at home" to F. and me. The baby came in to see her while we were there, and it gave me a tiny pang of envy to see its darling little head cuddled up to her ; however, it shortly flew into a rage and dissipated sentiment.

06Mar1868, A Most Powerful Sermon

LONDON, March 6th, 1868.
—Service at St. James's : the Dean of Westminster preached a most powerful sermon on "Eli, eli, lama sabachthani ?" speaking as if from his very heart of the darkness and perplexities of life, and how we should be sustained in them by the knowledge that our Saviour went through that awful moment of apparent desertion. He ended by appealing to one to abide patiently, sure of peace and light in the end, as our Lord in His next utterance confided His Spirit to His Father, though an instant before He had felt Himself forsaken. It made me cry, partly from the intense way I knew the pain the great perplexities give one, partly from feeling how he spoke from his own experiences, which must be, alas those of a man of faint and doubtful faith ; but at the same time, of strong love.

05Mar1868, Helping a Girl in a Fit

LONDON, March 5th, 1868.
—Saw a poor miserable girl lying quite rigid on her back in a fit in a smart part of Belgravia ; if we had not come up, I suppose she would be there now, everybody "passing by on the other side" like priests and Levites ! We sent for a policeman, who brought her round, and after a time she was well enough to walk feebly away, refusing to go in a cab : only lately out of an infirmary.

Friday, October 02, 2009

03Mar1868, Smart Little Party

LONDON, March 3rd, 1868.
—Smart little party with singing at Stafford House that we were obliged to go to, against my will ; the Prince and Princess there, she wonderfully well, and walking with only a little stiffness ; I believe she expects another baby !

28Feb1868, The Flirting of Married Women

LONDON, February 28th, 1868.
—St. James's, where Lord Arthur Hervey preached, making a lashing attack upon the state of society, the fastness and extravagance and absence of modesty in dress and manner ; the flirting of married women and all the mass of self-indulgence and pleasure-seeking. I don't mean he used these very expressions, but he was plain-spoken ; and it is all terribly true.

25Feb1868, Dizzy: Lord High Conjuror

LONDON, February 25th, 1868.
—Great news ! Lord Derby has resigned, owing to broken health ; and the Lord High Conjuror has got to the top of the ladder, viz., Dizzy is Prime Minister ! ! His party take it with a bad grace. I wonder how the Queen likes it.

04Feb1868, Limehouse Distress

HOLKER, February 4th, 1868.
—I heard from Miss Lilley ; the Limehouse distress has been terrible; men fainting at their work when they got a job, or having to stay at home next day from exhaustion ; and yet the neighbouring districts have been worse off. God help them.

01Feb1868, Reluctant Sons

HOLKER, February 1st, 1868.
—The energetic Duke carried off his rather reluctant sons to brave storms, shooting Ellerside.

13Jan1868, Notions About Ireland

MARSEILLES, January 13th, 1868.
—Last Saturday F. told me of some notions of his about Ireland. This miserable Fenianism makes one think much of its rights and wrongs, though of course it is the outbreak of only the worst and most reckless people. He has always been for the disestablishing of the Church, on the simplest ground of justice to the large majority. The other great grievance being the land tenures, and the thing to be aimed at being the giving the Irish an interest in the soil and some security of tenure, he would make them permanent tenants, as long as they paid fixed rents, to be settled upon according to income-tax.

25Dec1867, High Mass

ROME, Christmas Day, 1867.
—We went to the 9 o'clock celebration of the Holy Communion at our own ch. and then to S. Peter's for the High Mass. The elevation, and all the showing of the consecrated ele¬ments to the people, was excessively painful to one ; I followed the service as well as I could in a missal, and, the more one was able to join and feel with the service, the more distressing was the terrible shock that the notion of Transubstantiation gives one. The ceremonial is certainly impressive, but would be much more so, I think, if they would only do away with the ward¬robe part of it, and leave the Pope and Cardinals in gorgeous vestments if they please, but in statu quo. It is impossible too not to see that all the outward worship (except of the Host) centres in the Pope. The music was lovely, but altogether I was pained and grieved, and tired out with conflicting feelings.

24Dec1867, Unbonneting of the Pope

ROME, Christmas Eve, 1867.
—We went to S. Pietro in Vinculo and the Lateran again, Sta Croce in Gerusalemme and S. Martino in Monte ; at 3 to the Papal Vespers in the Sistine Chapel, very unimpressive and wardrobey, with the perpetual bonneting and unbonneting of the Pope, and mutual bowings and curtseyings. The singing fine, but music very stiff and crabbed ; the Pope intoned well.

Thursday, August 27, 2009

22Dec1867, An Audience with Pope Pius IX

ROME, December 22nd, 1867.
—The Pope gave us the honour of a private interview, but was so unkind as to fix the hour so as ingeniously to cut us off from both our own afternoon Services, and Benediction at the Trinità, which we wished to hear. He is a nice old man, with snowy hair, ruddy face, twinkling keen dark eyes, an amiable smile and a most pleasing, kind manner, but not dignified. He is short and rather fat, speaks good French and was wonderfully lively and cheerful. He said, "Dieu vous benit. Dio vi benedica," as we came up the room, and gave us his hand which we kissed with our best bow and curtsey ; but kneel we did not. He began almost at once upon politics, said as briskly as possible à propos of the risk and crisis his affairs had passed thro', "Mais néanmoins—cela marche!" and gave one the notion of great fearlessness, and confidence in the justice of his cause. He launched out upon the inefficiency of the King's government and the absence of any distinguished politicians—a lucky line for him to take, as we were able to agree with him unfortunately ! He spoke of Uncle W., and I made a terrible slip, saying, "Il aime beaucoup l'Italie et l'Italien," forgetting that "Italy" now means the kingdom ; but he didn't seem hurt, thank goodness. He spoke very warmly of Lord Clarendon, whom he seems to think he may convert ! but whether he meant politically or religiously, I don't know. He said, "Lord Gladstone est . . . Pooseyite, n'est-ce pas ?" to which I said, "Oui, S. Pere, et moi aussi !" at which he was much amused, saying, "Nous nous rapprochons done un peu plus . . . it faut que vous poussiez un peu plus loin !" ; whereat I felt a little insulted. Apparently he liked Lord Clarendon best of the big-wigs he saw last year, and said he hoped to see him again this year, and see what he thought of his friends (the King's people) ; perhaps he (the Pope) might convert him ! All this he came out with very chattily and with plenty of gesticulation and humour. He dismissed us very gracefully, saying to F., "Eh bien, Monsieur, je vous recommande cette Pooseyite," and we bowed out, much pleased with him.

18Dec1867, Justify the French Occupation

ROME, December 18th, 1867.
—Afterwards went to see Monsignor Talbot, a civil old gentleman in a long violet frock, distressingly like a prize-pig, who produced with great pomp a stage-property-looking pike and halberd and a little revolver, which he declared Garibaldi had hidden in thousands about Rome to kill priests, Pope, and all with. It isn't quite true, but they make out all the danger they can to justify the French occupation, and the fortifications which are still kept up.

08Dec1867, Terrible Worship

NAPLES, December 8th, 1867.
—Walked about, peeping into churches (Feast of the Imm. Conc. ; terrible worship was going on at the feet of smart dolls in a blaze of tapers).

02Dec1867, French Troops All Cleared Out

ROME, December 2nd, 1867.
—The French troops all cleared out of the town to-day. According to the Contessa, they are a good deal stung by this state of things. One of the old officers said to her, "On nous envoie combattre pour cette prétraille, leur gagner les batailles ; ensuite, quand ils n'ont plus besoin de nous, ils nous disent : fichez votre camp !—c'est un joli role que nous avons joué là." There is some talk of disturbances now they are gone, but it doesn't seem likely that this degraded, unarmed people should be able to do anything against the large papal army ; and as for outsiders, the town walls and gates are regularly fortified.

27Nov1867, News from Home

ROME, November 27th, 1867.
—We have taken to omit luncheon, as we can't spare the middle of the day ; letters and Murray, etc., keep us in till about 12. The wretched Fenians who attacked a prisoners' van at Manchester and let out a fellow-Fenian, shooting the policeman in charge dead, have been condemned to death ; and out of the 5, 3 have been executed. It is very sad and terrible, as they are the 1st who have been executed for a political offence ; but it seemed inevitable. There have been deputations and demonstrations against the sentence in London. Foreigners think England must be in danger ; somehow one can't feel that a bit. Never did I take in better the immense strength we have in our fearless freedom of press, opinion and discussion, than now, when there are anxieties and disturbances and an impending revolution in national power. Parliament has met about the Abyssinian war.

26Nov1867, Rome: Death-in-Life

ROME, November 26th, 1867.
—Spent the fragment of the day left before sunset in a delightful drive and tie to the Villa Mellini. We were longing for a good view over the city and the Campagna, and it was perfect in the lovely serene light ; the endless plain, the many-shadowed mountains, the many-domed town, and St. Peter's like a mighty king above it all. How beautiful and peaceful it all looked ! but it is terrible to think of the last state of degradation and the hopeless bondage underneath. There seems to be a mysterious death-in-life in which Rome exists ; all earnest striving after truth crushed remorselessly out of her, political and religious freedom alike poisoned, and the terrible results crying to Heaven. And yet there is life too ; because (as I can't help believing) the true Eternal Catholic Faith still is stirring beneath all the fearful accumulated corruptions. But one fears that the Papacy, with its tyranny of ages, will drive out all that is true at last, and that a crash will come.

22Nov1867, A Foot's Pace From Leghorn

ROME, November 22nd, 1867.
—To prevent arrival at Rome being too intoxicating we came at a foot's pace from Leghorn, the incapable engine getting more incapable after we had passed the Papal frontier. We took 14 hours over what one does in 6 in England. Two young Italian men (not papal) expressed themselves hotly at the strict fumbling their bags were put through at Civita Vecchia (ours being quickly passed) ; they would not be allowed to stay in Rome without some tedious and elaborate passporting. How any nation can stand it I can't think. Several poor young Garibaldini prisoners were picked up at Civ. V., and sang patriotic songs. Our Italians indulged in much mocking of priests and papal dominion, but in a slip-sloppy dialect that I could hardly make anything of. The station arrangements forlorn and unkempt beyond anything ; we got away ourselves in a rickety little "trap," but the luggage, in spite of its "lascia passare," didn't turn up for an hour afterwards.

Tuesday, August 25, 2009

14Nov1867, A Good Stare at Famous Statues

FLORENCE, November 14th, 1867.
—Rainy, but pleasant in the afternoon. We did the Palazzo Vecchio and the Palazzo del Podestà. In spite of the arrangements being evidently very hasty and temporary, it is astonishing how much more conveniently the members are accommodated in the Pal. Vecchio (which is now the Salle des Députés) than ours are in either House of Parliament. But I think they might have managed it better in the great (not too great) Hall of the Podestà which would not have wanted the horrid partition they have had to put up in the Pal. Vecchio. We then had a good stare at the famous statues of the Piazza della Signoria and the Loggia ; N.B. remarkable likeness of Neptune to Mr. (Inspector) Bellairs. I can't appreciate Michaelangelo's David, whose head really is much too big. At the Podestà is the lovely little bronze Mercury springing up from the puff of a wind, by John of Bologna, of which there is a copy at Chatsworth, nothing like as spirited. Uffizi, pleasant drive with Mr. Trev [FN: I.e. Trevelyan, now Sir George Trevelyan. Sir George writes to me : "In the November of that year we dined together, we three and no one else, at Doney's restaurant every evening for at least a fortnight, and then my great friendship with them was cemented and consolidated."], to Bello Sguardo, dinner with him at Doney's. Opera (Hernani) with Grosvenors ; very pretty.

09Nov1867, Finished "Jane Eyre"

FLORENCE, November 9th, 1867.
—We finished "Jane Eyre," which is, I think, the most powerful novel I ever read : the authoress turns oneself and one's opinions round her thumb. I thought my principles were pretty well established with regard to bigamy, but I might have been heard at one moment fervently wishing that circumstances had kept Jane ignorant of the 1st wife's existence ! ! N.B.—I repented afterwards !

29Oct1867, Sight-seeing in Venice

VENICE, October 29th, 1867.
—Another glorious, perfect day, spent in wonderful enjoyment. The Doge's Palace took us all the morning, and fully came up to anything I ever dreamed of ; afterwards delightful gondola expeditions to S. Giorgio Maggiore, Redentore, and Madonna di Salute ; all very grand and stately, though I am only just beginning to appreciate any style but Gothic, and still think these styles fitter for Polytheism than Christianity. Ended our doings with going up the campanile of S. Mark's at sunset ; the view very curious and interesting of the crowded town with its many towers, and the lovely light ! I dined at the table d'hôte, more lively than usual, with Yankees discussing their politics, the nomination of General Grant to succeed President Johnson, etc. Afterwards to the scrubby little theatre Malibran, all boxes and pit ; very funny to see the most unassuming shirt-sleeves occupying the boxes opposite ! The pit full of all sorts of people, who all roared between the acts. But one charm of Italy is that one hardly ever hears a harsh voice. The melodrama turned out to be dull, incomprehensible and improper, which was distressing. We walked home through the crazy little labyrinthian paved ways and across innumerable hunchbacked bridges ; had an ice at a cafe ; snug read of "Jane Eyre," in the midst of which I was overtaken by sleep ; sight-seeing has that effect, I find.

12Oct1867, Dined in Great Luxury

PARIS, October 12th, 1867.
—We dined in great luxury and enjoyment with the Lascelles' [FN: No doubt the Frank Lascelles ; he was brother of Lady Edward Cavendish, and cousin of Lord Frederick ; afterwards Ambassador at Berlin.] at the Café Durand, and then went together to the Théâtre Français, where "Hernani" is being played, and enchanted us.

09Oct1867, Female Heathens

LONDON, October 9th, 1867.
—I paid a flying visit to the workhouse, went for an hour to a Female Heathen Educational Association meeting (it looks like Mrs. Pardiggle in "Bleak House" !) ; we wrote letters and scrambled through odd jobs, bade farewell to peggies and Head, and set off on our travels. Our charming honeymoon courier Hoffman is with us, as convinced as ever that we are about 5 years old and not to be trusted to take our own tickets. Crossed from Folkestone to Boulogne ; a good deal of rain and wind, but somehow F. did not succumb, and I am all right in anything short of a violent, prolonged gale. All is fun to me ; the little wizzy mob-capped neat-as-a-pin peggy, the jabbering voices on the landing.

08Oct1867, Comments on New Vestments

LONDON, October 8th, 1867.
—I went to see poor Joshua Dutch in the All Saints' Home : he won't die after all. Went into the church to have a few quiet minutes, and found the Holy Communion being administered. The priest was consecrating the elements. It was my first sight of "the vestments," and it is honest truth that at first sight of the figure in green cope and long surplice I took it for a woman in a shawl, in the dim light. The "raiment clean and white" will, I think, always look more solemn and priestlike to me ; and the Bible and first ages give us no thought in primitive times of the narrow stole. It was a quiet, solemn thing, those few minutes in the near Presence of our Lord in the midst of the busy day.

28Sep1867, An Earl of Oxford Bull

HOLKER, September 29th, 1867.
—I walked to see an Earl of Oxford bull with the gentlemen.

Sunday, August 16, 2009

28Sep1867, The New Steam-Plough

HOLKER, September 28th, 1867.
—Walked to see the new steam-plough, which did remind me vividly of Tennyson's old farmer's description : "Huzzin and maazin the blessed fealds wi' the divil's own teàm." However, in spite of a hitch or two, it did manage to do 4 deep furrows at a time, which no doubt is striking.

26Aug1867, Famous Lyttelton Cricket

HAGLEY, August 26th, 1867.
—Got to old Hagley before 12. The Bromsgrove side were in, hitting very well. Papaa in flannels taking immense pains, fielding (I think) at short slip [FN: This was one of the matches played by eleven Lytteltons.]. Uncle Spencer, in magenta flannels, sitting on a bench as a distant long-stop, did two balls the honour of fielding them. Uncle B. running about rather vaguely. All the boys fielding capitally (except Bob who was no great shakes) ; little Edward really admirable, never missing a ball, and throwing them in as neatly and quickly as possible. Papa, to his infinite delight, caught out the last wicket, and we went in with 151 to get. Alfred's batting was truly excellent ; his defence being wonderful. They began sending him slow balls out of kindness, but soon found he was up to anything. Arthur made two or 3 very fine slashing hits, especially a drive which showed great strength.

24Aug1867, Playing Cricket Scientifically

BLITHFIELD, August 24th, 1867.
—Hot and lovely. Another thrilling cricket match ! The H. Meynells came over and I had the honour and gratification of bowling him out twice with a scientific, slow shooter ! !

21Aug1867, Papa's Episcopate Bill

BLITHFIELD, August 21st, 1867.
—The idiotic Peers have thrown out Papa's episcopate Bill as it came up from the Commons, because they won't have Bishops without a seat in the H. of Lords. It is a true, bitter criticism on this, that it is clear the wretched Peerage is the valuable thing about a Bishop !

17Aug1867, Remembering Mother

HOLKER, August 17th, 1867.
—The holy day to us all sacred to the blessed memory of what is past for ever. Ten years ago ! and yet at any time I can open the full tide of tears over the precious record of those last Days. [FN: Her mother died August 17, 1857.]

13Aug1867, A Delirious Scream

HOLKER, August 13th, 1867.
—We have begun "The Claverings." Also F. spouted to me a wonderfully delirious scream by Carlyle in Macmillan called "Shooting Niagara and after?"

11Aug1867, Lovelyissimus Major

HOLKER, August 11th, 1867.
F. and I went between services to Middle Bigland Scar, and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. It was lovelyissimus : beyond lovelyissimus major.

05Aug1867, Good-bye to My Poor Old Men

LONDON, August 5th, 1867.
—I said good-bye to my poor old men. Some I shall never see again. One, who suffers terribly and patiently, liked hearing me read the beautiful bits in Revelation to him, and said at the end : "Light—always light !—no sorrow—no pain," and I know the words were as ointment poured forth to his poor heart. These things are more to one than all the sermons in the world.

Tuesday, August 11, 2009

03Aug1867, A Cockney Expedition

LONDON, August 3rd, 1867.
—We failed to get the Devonshire House carriage, and found ourselves at 5 with nothing to do with our holyday. What should Fred hit upon but a delightful cockney expedition by boat to Greenwich ! where we kicked our heels in the park and toodled about very pleasantly, and wound up with a fish dinner, my intense enjoyment of which I am quite ashamed of !

01Aug1867, Kick-up in the H. of Lords

LONDON, August 1st, 1867.
—I have never stayed in London straight on into August before ; it is owing to the kick-up in the H. of Lords. . . .
There have been other amendments, including an unlucky one of Papa's, that nobody should vote who could not write a legible hand. The joke against him was that the clerk had to ask him to read the amendment, as he could not decipher it ! F. had thought of a similar proposal, but would have put it : "that all votes should be given in writing." However the notion is snuffed out. There is a strong party in the Lords' in favour of cumulative voting. Uncle W. is against it, F. for it. Bright violent against it.

23Jul1867, Birthdays

LONDON, July 23rd, 1867.
—Birthday of little Edward and of Cavendish [FN: Her brother Edward and her brother-in-law, Lord Harlington]. I wrote to the former, and sent the latter a little gift of Hymns Ancient and Modern for his pocket.

19Jul1867, Like Babies to the Zoo

LONDON, July 19th, 1867.
—My Fred's holyday : we went like a couple of babies to the Zoological Gardens, to my great enjoyment, and topped up with a really capital play, "The Lady of Lyons." N.B. It brought two tears down Freddy's iron cheek.

17Jul1867, The Review for the Sultan

H.M.S. " VICTORY," July 17th, 1867.
—Howling day with heavy storms ; but between acts beautiful sunshine and picturesque lights. Where these naval people put us all, it would be difficult to say. There are here, we two, Lady Ellesmere, Lady Enfield, Ld. Ellesmere, Mr. Egerton, the Duke, Mr. Jervoise Smith, and to-night come a Mr. Hope and Cavendish. The review came off in a wet and windy fashion, but was amazingly successful nevertheless. Only Alice Enfield of the womankind braved the ocean. Lou, Ly. Ellesmere, the Duke, F., and I contented ourselves with land views. We went to the Victuallers' Yard and saw the potentates arrive ; the Sultan, a thin-faced, fat-bodied, shrewd-looking creature, whom one would take for 60 whereas he is said not to be 40 : no ! I find I took the interpreter for him ! he is good-looking. Gorgeous persons in red and gold and Albanians in white petticoats attended him. The Prince of Wales came with him. They embarked in the Osborne, and the Queen, in spite of the weather, came from the Isle of Wight to meet him in the Victoria and Albert, took him on board, and invested him (more's the pity, and great the scandal, to my mind !) with the ribbon of the Garter there and then, taking it off Prince Louis of Hesse for the purpose. What would Edward III have thought ?

16Jul1867, Last Visit to the Victory

H.M.S. "VICTORY," July 16th, 1867.
—We came for a last visit to the Victory, for the naval review in honour of the Sultan to-morrow.

15Jul1867, The Sultan and Viceroy of Egypt

LONDON, July 15th, 1867.
—Big swell drum at Stafford House in honour of the Viceroy of Egypt ; for, by the bye, all London is turned out of window to welcome him and the Sultan. I am a little exasperated at such a splash for 2 scampish old Turks, when nothing has been done for any Christian potentate ; however, it is a good thing to see Buckingham Palace doing duty, and the Queen coming forward with gracious civilities.

13Jul1867, The Housekeeper Drinks

FALCONHURST, July 13th, 1867.
—Miserable catastrophe again in our household ; the housekeeper drinks, and has wretched health. Kind Dr. Clark came to see her for me. I gave her warning. My life feels shortened by these things.

11Jul1867, Lady Churchill's Little Boy

LONDON, July 11th, 1867.
—Lady Churchill brought her wonderful little boy to see me ; born after 12 or more childless years of married life : a strapping, sharp, ugly little fellow.