LONDON, March 24th, 1872. Palm Sunday.
—Our 1st Sunday in London. There cd. not have been a much greater contrast than our two Services. S. Martin's with its sleepy decorum and Mr. Humphry's good and sensible, but dry, stiff preaching, and S. Peter's, where we went to hear for the 1st time the now famous Mr. Wilkinson. He adopts something of the Wesley method—arousing, chiding, and appealing, and all with vehement voice and gesture. To my mind it was much of it painfully painful ; but the force of conviction and love of Christ and of souls is very overpowering and the good he has done is wonderful. It was a mighty, devout congregn., and the hymns were like the roar of waters. It was D. J. [FN: "Dismal Jemmy" (Sir George William Des Vœux)] (a cousin-in-law of Mr. W.) who got us places : he is himself "under the wand of the enchanter," and in a strange state of suppressed excitement. Mr. W. set him to work to bring round a sceptical communistic publican ! So D. J. paid the man a visit ; offered him a cigar, and had a good political talk, at the end of which the publican gripped him by the hand, said he had never spoken to a gentleman before, asked leave to have a friend or two in to meet D. J. next time, and to-day came to church with a train of followers ! !
Mr. W. after Evensong has a meeting for prayer and for seeing people, which is thronged. Some of the worst men among London swells are said to be turning over a new leaf under his influence.
Sunday, March 28, 2010
18Mar1872, Gladstone Not a Jesuit in Disguise
LONDON, Monday, March 18th, 1872.
—A cosy scratch dinner of Uncle Dick, Prime Minister and Mrs., Mesd. Talbot and Johnny. Talked Churchums a good deal —it amused me to think, as I listened to Uncle W.'s regular old-fashioned, rather Conservative, and strongly anti-Roman High Churchism, how many Whalley-Newdigateites put him down as a Jesuit in disguise. I had to spend a vast deal of eloquence in Jamaica upon Mrs. Fisher, to get her out of this notion, and doubt if I succeeded. Hot Protestant maukins love to send impudent demands as to whether he is a papist or not, with delicate intimations that mental reservations are probably to be expected of him.
—A cosy scratch dinner of Uncle Dick, Prime Minister and Mrs., Mesd. Talbot and Johnny. Talked Churchums a good deal —it amused me to think, as I listened to Uncle W.'s regular old-fashioned, rather Conservative, and strongly anti-Roman High Churchism, how many Whalley-Newdigateites put him down as a Jesuit in disguise. I had to spend a vast deal of eloquence in Jamaica upon Mrs. Fisher, to get her out of this notion, and doubt if I succeeded. Hot Protestant maukins love to send impudent demands as to whether he is a papist or not, with delicate intimations that mental reservations are probably to be expected of him.
Thursday, March 25, 2010
11Mar1872, Monstrous Clothes
Monday, March 22, 2010
04Mar1872, The Course of Events Like a Drama
LONDON, Monday, March 4th, 1872.
—Dinner at Dow. Ly. Cowper's. Dufferins, young Cowpers, Evelyn Ashley (his wife at Menton for her health), Mr. Leveson [FN: Hon. Frederick Leveson-Gower, brother of Lord Granville.], hearing with great philosophy the arrival of Ld. Granville's son and heir, just announced, cutting out Mr. Leveson's boy. Said boy, however, seems a good deal more distressed at the abolition of extra weeks at Eton than by his manqué prospects. Little Vita Leveson asked her father : "Is it you or Mamma that's going to give me a little brother ?" There were also Ly. Gertrude Talbot, Mr. H. Cowper, etc.
Dean Stanley and Ly. Augusta came in after dinner : the Dean was in his element, and very delightful, talking of the loyal outburst in the country. He said nothing cd. have been imagined more striking than the course of events, and indeed it has been like a drama. The grumbling Republicanism culminating almost in threats, followed by the illness of the Prince, and that illness one so prolonged as to melt all hearts and awaken all sympathies, the devotion of the Queen and Princess — the turn for the better on the anniversary of his father's death—the great Thanksgiving Day, with its fine weather breaking out after lowering rain and fog : then the attack on the Queen by what wd. seem like the one disloyal hand among three millions, and the fresh rush of loving feeling caused by it and by her courage.
—Dinner at Dow. Ly. Cowper's. Dufferins, young Cowpers, Evelyn Ashley (his wife at Menton for her health), Mr. Leveson [FN: Hon. Frederick Leveson-Gower, brother of Lord Granville.], hearing with great philosophy the arrival of Ld. Granville's son and heir, just announced, cutting out Mr. Leveson's boy. Said boy, however, seems a good deal more distressed at the abolition of extra weeks at Eton than by his manqué prospects. Little Vita Leveson asked her father : "Is it you or Mamma that's going to give me a little brother ?" There were also Ly. Gertrude Talbot, Mr. H. Cowper, etc.
Dean Stanley and Ly. Augusta came in after dinner : the Dean was in his element, and very delightful, talking of the loyal outburst in the country. He said nothing cd. have been imagined more striking than the course of events, and indeed it has been like a drama. The grumbling Republicanism culminating almost in threats, followed by the illness of the Prince, and that illness one so prolonged as to melt all hearts and awaken all sympathies, the devotion of the Queen and Princess — the turn for the better on the anniversary of his father's death—the great Thanksgiving Day, with its fine weather breaking out after lowering rain and fog : then the attack on the Queen by what wd. seem like the one disloyal hand among three millions, and the fresh rush of loving feeling caused by it and by her courage.
Sunday, March 21, 2010
01Mar1872, The Queen is Attacked
LONDON, Friday, March 1st, 1872.
—A crazy attack was made on the Queen last night as she came home from a drive by a wretched Irish boy with an old broken unloaded pistol, which he levelled within a foot of her head. It seems he hoped (sanguine!) to frighten her into signing a paper he had for the release of the Fenian prisoners ; and that he had tried in vain to play this precious trick near S. Paul's on Tuesday. Lucky for him the crowd was too great : he wd. certainly have been set upon by the people and very likely torn to pieces. In a p.s. at the end of this document he begs to be shot, not hung, if he is caught ; I fear he will have neither honour, but a sound flogging. The Queen behaved beautifully ; she was horribly frightened, and just called out "Save me" to Lady Churchill, who was next to her ; but the next thing she did was to beg the guards not to hurt the scamp as he struggled with them ; and she then immediately sent off Gen, Hardinge to the Houses of Parlt. to have a proper statement made of the matter, and to prevent panic. Nevertheless some newsboys, I believe, shouted "Assassination of the Queen" about some of the streets. If anything was wanted to send loyalty up to boiling-point, this attempt has done it ! Great crowds gathered in the Park when the Queen pluckily drove out this morning in an open carriage with no extra precautions ; and again to see her go away ; and cheered famously. Little Bertram saw the departure joisted on somebody's shoulder, and announced that he cheered as loud as he cd., which no doubt encouraged Her Majesty.
Mr. Birch, the Pr. of Wales' old tutor, saw him since his illness and told — how much struck he was with the Prince's improved tone and seriousness ; adding, "I think Lady Lyttelton's early training may be telling now."
—A crazy attack was made on the Queen last night as she came home from a drive by a wretched Irish boy with an old broken unloaded pistol, which he levelled within a foot of her head. It seems he hoped (sanguine!) to frighten her into signing a paper he had for the release of the Fenian prisoners ; and that he had tried in vain to play this precious trick near S. Paul's on Tuesday. Lucky for him the crowd was too great : he wd. certainly have been set upon by the people and very likely torn to pieces. In a p.s. at the end of this document he begs to be shot, not hung, if he is caught ; I fear he will have neither honour, but a sound flogging. The Queen behaved beautifully ; she was horribly frightened, and just called out "Save me" to Lady Churchill, who was next to her ; but the next thing she did was to beg the guards not to hurt the scamp as he struggled with them ; and she then immediately sent off Gen, Hardinge to the Houses of Parlt. to have a proper statement made of the matter, and to prevent panic. Nevertheless some newsboys, I believe, shouted "Assassination of the Queen" about some of the streets. If anything was wanted to send loyalty up to boiling-point, this attempt has done it ! Great crowds gathered in the Park when the Queen pluckily drove out this morning in an open carriage with no extra precautions ; and again to see her go away ; and cheered famously. Little Bertram saw the departure joisted on somebody's shoulder, and announced that he cheered as loud as he cd., which no doubt encouraged Her Majesty.
Mr. Birch, the Pr. of Wales' old tutor, saw him since his illness and told — how much struck he was with the Prince's improved tone and seriousness ; adding, "I think Lady Lyttelton's early training may be telling now."
27Feb1872, Thanksgiving for the Prince's Recovery
LONDON, Tuesday, February 27th, 1872.
—The day of Thanksgiving for the recovery of the Prince of Wales. He accompanied the Queen, who went in state to S. Paul's. Oh, what a never-to-be-forgotten day it has been ! I for one had prayed for fine weather, so dreadful would it have been if it had rained ; and thank God it was a fair February day, with occasional bright gleams of sunshine. The Talbots and we went by river from the Parliament Quay, where a select little mob of Peers and Commons were pouring down the stairs and embarking in beflagged steamers. The progress was swift and dignified and we landed at S. Paul's Wharf and got to our places without any difficulty. But would that we had driven, as it turned out we might well have done. Such a sight can never have been seen before. From Buckingham Palace up Pall Mall and the Strand thro' the City to the Cathedral was one mighty multitude and one continued acclamation. The Queen and Prince sat in one carriage, with the Prss. of Wales, Princess Beatrice, and little Prince Edward bodkin : the other Princes were in another carriage with little Prince George. There were nine other carriages, including the new Speaker (Mr. Brand) in a gorgeous coach, and the Ld. Chancellor : the Queen had 8 horses and there were troops and guards of honour. We meanwhile waited patiently for 2 hours under the dome, watching the 13,000 people gradually fill the grand Cathedral—choir, nave, transepts, and galleries. A few minutes before 1 was heard that most thrilling sound—the National Anthem coming nearer and nearer and, as the bands outside ceased, being taken up by the organ, as the procession entered the great West door. The Queen leant on the Prince's arm ; he held his eldest son's hand : on the Queen's left was the Princess leading Prince George : the others followed. There was a short pause while they took their places at the junction of the nave with the transepts, then the choir broke forth into the Te Deum. Never before had I realised what a Psalm of Thanksgiving it is, and most beautiful and moving were the words specially dwelt upon by the music : "Also the Holy Ghost, the Comforter," and "When Thou hadst overcome the sharpness of death."
All was ended within an hour. Those who were near the Queen and Prince were struck with their devout look and behaviour : the dear Princess was in tears during the special thanksgiving prayer—thinking no doubt of that cry for mercy in which she used to join when she cd. leave him for a few minutes in that fight between life and death. The dear Queen sang the hymn with all her heart. When it was over, the great congregation dispersed very easily, many staying to look at the Cathedral. Noble and grand it always looks to me indeed—its proportions so perfect, that I found S. Peter's did not at all spoil me for it. But it does call out for decoration, and a great subscription will be started from this day. The Queen gives £1,000, the Prince £500.
I coaxed F. to drive with me along Oxford Street after dinner ; the illuminations and decorations were famous, and the crowds were very well behaved and in high delight.
—The day of Thanksgiving for the recovery of the Prince of Wales. He accompanied the Queen, who went in state to S. Paul's. Oh, what a never-to-be-forgotten day it has been ! I for one had prayed for fine weather, so dreadful would it have been if it had rained ; and thank God it was a fair February day, with occasional bright gleams of sunshine. The Talbots and we went by river from the Parliament Quay, where a select little mob of Peers and Commons were pouring down the stairs and embarking in beflagged steamers. The progress was swift and dignified and we landed at S. Paul's Wharf and got to our places without any difficulty. But would that we had driven, as it turned out we might well have done. Such a sight can never have been seen before. From Buckingham Palace up Pall Mall and the Strand thro' the City to the Cathedral was one mighty multitude and one continued acclamation. The Queen and Prince sat in one carriage, with the Prss. of Wales, Princess Beatrice, and little Prince Edward bodkin : the other Princes were in another carriage with little Prince George. There were nine other carriages, including the new Speaker (Mr. Brand) in a gorgeous coach, and the Ld. Chancellor : the Queen had 8 horses and there were troops and guards of honour. We meanwhile waited patiently for 2 hours under the dome, watching the 13,000 people gradually fill the grand Cathedral—choir, nave, transepts, and galleries. A few minutes before 1 was heard that most thrilling sound—the National Anthem coming nearer and nearer and, as the bands outside ceased, being taken up by the organ, as the procession entered the great West door. The Queen leant on the Prince's arm ; he held his eldest son's hand : on the Queen's left was the Princess leading Prince George : the others followed. There was a short pause while they took their places at the junction of the nave with the transepts, then the choir broke forth into the Te Deum. Never before had I realised what a Psalm of Thanksgiving it is, and most beautiful and moving were the words specially dwelt upon by the music : "Also the Holy Ghost, the Comforter," and "When Thou hadst overcome the sharpness of death."
All was ended within an hour. Those who were near the Queen and Prince were struck with their devout look and behaviour : the dear Princess was in tears during the special thanksgiving prayer—thinking no doubt of that cry for mercy in which she used to join when she cd. leave him for a few minutes in that fight between life and death. The dear Queen sang the hymn with all her heart. When it was over, the great congregation dispersed very easily, many staying to look at the Cathedral. Noble and grand it always looks to me indeed—its proportions so perfect, that I found S. Peter's did not at all spoil me for it. But it does call out for decoration, and a great subscription will be started from this day. The Queen gives £1,000, the Prince £500.
I coaxed F. to drive with me along Oxford Street after dinner ; the illuminations and decorations were famous, and the crowds were very well behaved and in high delight.
23Feb1872, A Strange Will and Gov. Eyre
LONDON, Friday, February 23rd, 1872.
—The W. E.G.'s dined with us : he had a regular scrimmage last night over a Parks Bill : Mr. Hardy rather inexcusably leading off with sharp party accusations, Dizzy maliciously seizing the opportunity for tickling up Uncle W. with a straw, Mr. Harcourt "posing as tribune of the roughs," and the lot amongst them getting sad rises out of the Prime Minister, who never will learn [FN: The same incapacity to ignore attacks meant only to "draw" him caused great loss of time in his later Ministries.] the right moments for silent contempt or calm snubs. In spite of all this, however, and the many more important vexations and anxieties ahead, Uncle W. plunged con amore into Jamaican politics and told us of his father's odd will leaving his sugar estates, when they were at the lowest ebb of value, to be divided inalienably among his four daughters-in-law ! His sons desired only to sell these shares to their brother Robertson ; but could not do so legally ; and Uncle W. was advised that his only dodge was to put a clause into his own will disinheriting anybody who should dispute the sale ! The Gov. Eyre topic came up, and it was interesting to see Uncle W.'s intense feeling against the panic style of putting down black risings—the more striking as coming from the son of a canny old slaveholder. He told us of certain terrible reprisals in Cephalonia upon the subject race that had got up a row many years ago—his whole countenance full of wrath and pain. "The English are not a humane people," he said with great emphasis.
—The W. E.G.'s dined with us : he had a regular scrimmage last night over a Parks Bill : Mr. Hardy rather inexcusably leading off with sharp party accusations, Dizzy maliciously seizing the opportunity for tickling up Uncle W. with a straw, Mr. Harcourt "posing as tribune of the roughs," and the lot amongst them getting sad rises out of the Prime Minister, who never will learn [FN: The same incapacity to ignore attacks meant only to "draw" him caused great loss of time in his later Ministries.] the right moments for silent contempt or calm snubs. In spite of all this, however, and the many more important vexations and anxieties ahead, Uncle W. plunged con amore into Jamaican politics and told us of his father's odd will leaving his sugar estates, when they were at the lowest ebb of value, to be divided inalienably among his four daughters-in-law ! His sons desired only to sell these shares to their brother Robertson ; but could not do so legally ; and Uncle W. was advised that his only dodge was to put a clause into his own will disinheriting anybody who should dispute the sale ! The Gov. Eyre topic came up, and it was interesting to see Uncle W.'s intense feeling against the panic style of putting down black risings—the more striking as coming from the son of a canny old slaveholder. He told us of certain terrible reprisals in Cephalonia upon the subject race that had got up a row many years ago—his whole countenance full of wrath and pain. "The English are not a humane people," he said with great emphasis.
22Feb1872, Handsome and Love-lorn Hubert Parry
LONDON, Thursday, February 22nd, 1872.
—Dined at Portl. Pl. [FN: Her father's house.], meeting Ly. A. Compton, Helen Gladstone, Mr. Strutt, the handsome and love-lorn Hubert Parry, who may not marry his Maude Herbert for a long while, viewing money ; darling King Alfred, etc. Nice music and singing.
—Dined at Portl. Pl. [FN: Her father's house.], meeting Ly. A. Compton, Helen Gladstone, Mr. Strutt, the handsome and love-lorn Hubert Parry, who may not marry his Maude Herbert for a long while, viewing money ; darling King Alfred, etc. Nice music and singing.
Friday, March 12, 2010
06Feb1872, A Storm at Sea
ON BOARD THE " NILE," Tuesday, February 6th, 1872.
—Another tumbling night, and F., going on deck before breakfast, came down to warn me off ; for behold a real, true, glorious gale was blowing. We had left a crack open in our port-hole at night, and about 3.30 a.m. in popped a sea, cold-pigging me on the side of my head, and doing some little mischief to clothes, etc. I went with F. when I was dressed to the top of the saloon staircase. At that minute a small stay-sail broke away from its block, and as they hauled it down, we saw the wind split it right up. At breakfast a grand country dance of everything on the table took place : F.'s plate, well laden with half-picked turkey bones, skum across full against his opposite neighbour's portly waistcoat, overleaping fiddles and a dish of salt fish. Shortly after came a mighty thump against the ship's side which made me think, though I knew it was impossible, that we had struck ; but it was only a sea which proceeded to pour through the skylights souse on to my back ; cold pig the second, very chilly and surprising. Poor D. J. [FN: Dismal Jemmy .] disappeared from sight. After luncheon we again went to the top of the staircase, and I remained a long time, making the most of this my 1st sight of a storm at sea. The ship is said to behave beautifully, and indeed one can see that she does, even with inexperienced eyes. Looking forward to the bows, one could see her curtseying and bounding over the great hills and valleys of water, running away from the green monsters that pursued her : the sail set square and straining before the wind. While I was there, two great seas came sweeping over the decks, and plunging down the hatchways into the regions below ; then out shone a beautiful rainbow straight ahead of us. Below, it certainly is not very agreeable ; the mighty lurches endangering heads and limbs ; the screw getting out of the water and whirling and thumping ; and the ship giving long shudders now and then as if she really could not stand it any longer ; creaks, crashes, and roarings ad libitum. But I am very glad to have seen the glorious sight above. On the lower deck it is wonderful to look through the ports and see oneself under the sea every few seconds.
—Another tumbling night, and F., going on deck before breakfast, came down to warn me off ; for behold a real, true, glorious gale was blowing. We had left a crack open in our port-hole at night, and about 3.30 a.m. in popped a sea, cold-pigging me on the side of my head, and doing some little mischief to clothes, etc. I went with F. when I was dressed to the top of the saloon staircase. At that minute a small stay-sail broke away from its block, and as they hauled it down, we saw the wind split it right up. At breakfast a grand country dance of everything on the table took place : F.'s plate, well laden with half-picked turkey bones, skum across full against his opposite neighbour's portly waistcoat, overleaping fiddles and a dish of salt fish. Shortly after came a mighty thump against the ship's side which made me think, though I knew it was impossible, that we had struck ; but it was only a sea which proceeded to pour through the skylights souse on to my back ; cold pig the second, very chilly and surprising. Poor D. J. [FN: Dismal Jemmy .] disappeared from sight. After luncheon we again went to the top of the staircase, and I remained a long time, making the most of this my 1st sight of a storm at sea. The ship is said to behave beautifully, and indeed one can see that she does, even with inexperienced eyes. Looking forward to the bows, one could see her curtseying and bounding over the great hills and valleys of water, running away from the green monsters that pursued her : the sail set square and straining before the wind. While I was there, two great seas came sweeping over the decks, and plunging down the hatchways into the regions below ; then out shone a beautiful rainbow straight ahead of us. Below, it certainly is not very agreeable ; the mighty lurches endangering heads and limbs ; the screw getting out of the water and whirling and thumping ; and the ship giving long shudders now and then as if she really could not stand it any longer ; creaks, crashes, and roarings ad libitum. But I am very glad to have seen the glorious sight above. On the lower deck it is wonderful to look through the ports and see oneself under the sea every few seconds.
29Jan1872, Final Thoughts on Jamaica
ON BOARD THE " NILE " GOING HOME, January 29th, 1872.
—I carry away rather conflicting notions of the negroes. Sir J. C. Grant won't have it that they are lazy ; and indeed it does not look like it in Jamaica, where so many of the settlers do well, carrying their produce miles to market, and often looking thoroughly thriving and comfortable. On the other hand, in Barbados they don't work, if they can help it, more than three or four days a week on the estates, though this can only just keep body and soul together ; and they will get their wives to do even this for them if possible. These people don't seem to have any wish to make money ; so that they can just live they seem perfectly happy, and look so, it must be confessed. In St. Vincent we heard the same, and there they have a frightful amount of bankruptcy ; but I do believe a fair trial given in the way of promising higher wages to good continuous work might be found to have an effect. There is such jealousy on the part of the planters at the blacks becoming independent, that one does not easily hear more than one side of the question ; they delight in calling all the small settlers "squatters," though that word only properly applies to people living on patches of ground to which they have no title. I fancy that those who only own an acre do fall into lazy uncivilisd habits, being able to get a mere living out of the ground with little exertion, and nothing else ; but one can hardly doubt that those who own more are doing well, and improving, at all events in Jamaica. We saw one good stone house in two stories, with verandah, etc., on Mr. Cooke's estate, built and owned by a black man, and heard of similar cases. But tho' Mr. C. showed it off with some pride, he would not allow that one ought to take it as an encouraging sign ; but only as exceptional. As to old General Monro at Barbados, he is a frantic negro hater, abusing all squatters as lazy, selfish savages. When I remarked that one could hardly wonder at people's preferring independence when they could get it, and that in England one rather thought the better of a labourer who had raised himself, he said the negroes should have more public spirit, and should be willing to sacrifice their own interests to the general good of the Colonies ; and cited as examples they ought to rival the devoted public-spirited M.P.s in England ! ! ! (Not so very numerous either, I fear.) Now, with all my good opinion of Sambo, I think this is expecting a good deal of him, poor creature ; even granting that his continuing an estate labourer at a fixed wage to the end of time is the beau ideal for all parties.
—I carry away rather conflicting notions of the negroes. Sir J. C. Grant won't have it that they are lazy ; and indeed it does not look like it in Jamaica, where so many of the settlers do well, carrying their produce miles to market, and often looking thoroughly thriving and comfortable. On the other hand, in Barbados they don't work, if they can help it, more than three or four days a week on the estates, though this can only just keep body and soul together ; and they will get their wives to do even this for them if possible. These people don't seem to have any wish to make money ; so that they can just live they seem perfectly happy, and look so, it must be confessed. In St. Vincent we heard the same, and there they have a frightful amount of bankruptcy ; but I do believe a fair trial given in the way of promising higher wages to good continuous work might be found to have an effect. There is such jealousy on the part of the planters at the blacks becoming independent, that one does not easily hear more than one side of the question ; they delight in calling all the small settlers "squatters," though that word only properly applies to people living on patches of ground to which they have no title. I fancy that those who only own an acre do fall into lazy uncivilisd habits, being able to get a mere living out of the ground with little exertion, and nothing else ; but one can hardly doubt that those who own more are doing well, and improving, at all events in Jamaica. We saw one good stone house in two stories, with verandah, etc., on Mr. Cooke's estate, built and owned by a black man, and heard of similar cases. But tho' Mr. C. showed it off with some pride, he would not allow that one ought to take it as an encouraging sign ; but only as exceptional. As to old General Monro at Barbados, he is a frantic negro hater, abusing all squatters as lazy, selfish savages. When I remarked that one could hardly wonder at people's preferring independence when they could get it, and that in England one rather thought the better of a labourer who had raised himself, he said the negroes should have more public spirit, and should be willing to sacrifice their own interests to the general good of the Colonies ; and cited as examples they ought to rival the devoted public-spirited M.P.s in England ! ! ! (Not so very numerous either, I fear.) Now, with all my good opinion of Sambo, I think this is expecting a good deal of him, poor creature ; even granting that his continuing an estate labourer at a fixed wage to the end of time is the beau ideal for all parties.
25Jan1872, To be Remembered in One's Dreams
CONVN. OF S. PAUL. Thursday, January 25th, 1872.
—A day of days We got up at 5 and tried not to mind the fierce short storms of rain that kept pelting down, and sure enough all was bright when we set forth at 7, Governor and F. on mules ("the Colonel" and "Sophia") and I on a pony called no less than "Grace." We went up a valley whose mountain-sides were all that Kingsley described in "At Last," the special glories being masses of tree-ferns climbing nearly from top to bottom, groves of the splendid wild plantain (?) and other wonderful large-leaved things. The whole extent of wood and bush was all overgrown by lovely creepers which ran riot in all directions and seemed only to glorify what was dead or decaying, as well as what was living and lovely. We wound out of the valley on to a high narrow ridge, which opened to us an equally wonderful valley on the other side ; and as we went on, we got into the glorious thick of the vegetation, so that one had to push aside the long plantain leaves on either hand and ride under the shadow of the ferns. The track became truly surprising ; the rides near Craigton wd. have been highways ; and Sophia and Grace, being weedy creatures, gave out at the worst bits. I was therefore promoted to the Colonel and the gentlemen rode and tied as best they might. When we got upon the higher ground of the Souffrière it was odd to see tropical vegetation reduced to regular scrub ; the air chilly from damp (for we got into a cloud) ; nevertheless bewitching little humming-birds were to be seen, and we heard one clear note of a singing bird that might have been a thrush. At last and unexpectedly we came upon the great crater surrounded by precipitous banks of great height, clothed to the very edge of the basin, which was filled with still green water exactly like a sheet of jade. Beyond this, the cloud thickened, so that we looked in vain down into the Carib country ; and settled to turn back. Indeed we had seen enough to last one's life ; and the ride back was just doubling it. The Colonel was an extraordinary creature and took me down impossible rocks and perpendicular slides, to the admiration of all beholders. The last mile or two it got very hot ; and joyful it was to get back at 12, and enjoy tub and breakfast. Then the smooth delicious row back to Kingstown, diversified by a sweet nap. An urgent message came to Mr. Rennie [FN: Governor of St. Vincent.] at Wallaboo from Château Belair, imploring him to land on his way back ; so he and F. went ashore, where all the people were gathered in high excitement. Wonderfully pretty it looked, and to be remembered hereafter in one's dreams of fair and distant scenes ; the many-coloured group on the shore, with flags flying over them ; the village over-shadowed with palms ; the lovely deep green ravines and mountains beyond, and our little boat rocking on the blue water. As the Governor landed, the schoolchildren, who were all assembled, struck up "God save the Queen" ; how it thrilled through me, to see this loving loyalty for Her rule from these utmost isles of the sea !
—A day of days We got up at 5 and tried not to mind the fierce short storms of rain that kept pelting down, and sure enough all was bright when we set forth at 7, Governor and F. on mules ("the Colonel" and "Sophia") and I on a pony called no less than "Grace." We went up a valley whose mountain-sides were all that Kingsley described in "At Last," the special glories being masses of tree-ferns climbing nearly from top to bottom, groves of the splendid wild plantain (?) and other wonderful large-leaved things. The whole extent of wood and bush was all overgrown by lovely creepers which ran riot in all directions and seemed only to glorify what was dead or decaying, as well as what was living and lovely. We wound out of the valley on to a high narrow ridge, which opened to us an equally wonderful valley on the other side ; and as we went on, we got into the glorious thick of the vegetation, so that one had to push aside the long plantain leaves on either hand and ride under the shadow of the ferns. The track became truly surprising ; the rides near Craigton wd. have been highways ; and Sophia and Grace, being weedy creatures, gave out at the worst bits. I was therefore promoted to the Colonel and the gentlemen rode and tied as best they might. When we got upon the higher ground of the Souffrière it was odd to see tropical vegetation reduced to regular scrub ; the air chilly from damp (for we got into a cloud) ; nevertheless bewitching little humming-birds were to be seen, and we heard one clear note of a singing bird that might have been a thrush. At last and unexpectedly we came upon the great crater surrounded by precipitous banks of great height, clothed to the very edge of the basin, which was filled with still green water exactly like a sheet of jade. Beyond this, the cloud thickened, so that we looked in vain down into the Carib country ; and settled to turn back. Indeed we had seen enough to last one's life ; and the ride back was just doubling it. The Colonel was an extraordinary creature and took me down impossible rocks and perpendicular slides, to the admiration of all beholders. The last mile or two it got very hot ; and joyful it was to get back at 12, and enjoy tub and breakfast. Then the smooth delicious row back to Kingstown, diversified by a sweet nap. An urgent message came to Mr. Rennie [FN: Governor of St. Vincent.] at Wallaboo from Château Belair, imploring him to land on his way back ; so he and F. went ashore, where all the people were gathered in high excitement. Wonderfully pretty it looked, and to be remembered hereafter in one's dreams of fair and distant scenes ; the many-coloured group on the shore, with flags flying over them ; the village over-shadowed with palms ; the lovely deep green ravines and mountains beyond, and our little boat rocking on the blue water. As the Governor landed, the schoolchildren, who were all assembled, struck up "God save the Queen" ; how it thrilled through me, to see this loving loyalty for Her rule from these utmost isles of the sea !
23Jan1872, Rowing Past Château Belair
THE GARDENS, ST. VINCENT, January 23rd, 1872.
—After luncheon the Govr. took us off with him, and we went on board a rowing-boat and had a delightful row of 17 miles along the leeward coast to Wallaboo. Passed a lovely little town called Château Belair, which fired a salute (i.e., the Wesleyan schoolmaster popped off a musket) and hoisted a Union Jack in honour of the Governor ; so we pulled in near the shore and made affable bows. Landed at Wallaboo about six and walked up to a nice little house on a hill, which the absent proprietor had had put tidy for us. Its apsidal drawing-room looked out on an enchanting view. Bedroom's only disadvantages a swarm of ants all over the floor, and a handleless door.
—After luncheon the Govr. took us off with him, and we went on board a rowing-boat and had a delightful row of 17 miles along the leeward coast to Wallaboo. Passed a lovely little town called Château Belair, which fired a salute (i.e., the Wesleyan schoolmaster popped off a musket) and hoisted a Union Jack in honour of the Governor ; so we pulled in near the shore and made affable bows. Landed at Wallaboo about six and walked up to a nice little house on a hill, which the absent proprietor had had put tidy for us. Its apsidal drawing-room looked out on an enchanting view. Bedroom's only disadvantages a swarm of ants all over the floor, and a handleless door.
09Jan1872, Croquet Wanted Special Science
GOVERNMENT HOUSE, January 9th, 1872.
—Croquet in the evening on a lawn (?) in which the grass grows only in scanty ragged tufts ; when you try to break off a blade up comes the whole valuable tuft. It has been showery weather, and altogether the croquet wanted special science.
—Croquet in the evening on a lawn (?) in which the grass grows only in scanty ragged tufts ; when you try to break off a blade up comes the whole valuable tuft. It has been showery weather, and altogether the croquet wanted special science.
05Jan1872, Sir Briggs Shows Off Farley Hill
FARLEY HILL, January 5th, 1872.
—The Govr. showed off his wonderful shells and other sea-creatures yesterday. Sir G. B. bore us off, and Dismal [FN: Mr., afterwards Sir William, Des Voeux, Governor of Hongkong, whom she always called "Dismal Jemmy."], in the early morning, and we arrived at his house, Farley Hill, about 10.30. Odd to say, we were treated to an impromptu and highly regal reception : triumphal arches, all the population turning out, and general excitement. We are told the chief enthusiasm is over F. as "a Lord" ; a Lady being of course a comparatively humdrum being ; and disappointment seems to prevail at his wearing a panama hat instead of a gold crown. Greeted by My Lady Briggs and 3 old-maid sisters, two with rather knifey parchment-hued faces ; all very kind and pleasant. A bevy of mounted gentlemen escorted us the last mile, who drew forth two neat speeches of a minute apiece from Sir G. B. and F. Delightful cool house in only two stories ; drawing-rooms opening into each other with doorless doorways and the incessant warm breeze blowing everywhere ; wide corridor running round the whole.
—The Govr. showed off his wonderful shells and other sea-creatures yesterday. Sir G. B. bore us off, and Dismal [FN: Mr., afterwards Sir William, Des Voeux, Governor of Hongkong, whom she always called "Dismal Jemmy."], in the early morning, and we arrived at his house, Farley Hill, about 10.30. Odd to say, we were treated to an impromptu and highly regal reception : triumphal arches, all the population turning out, and general excitement. We are told the chief enthusiasm is over F. as "a Lord" ; a Lady being of course a comparatively humdrum being ; and disappointment seems to prevail at his wearing a panama hat instead of a gold crown. Greeted by My Lady Briggs and 3 old-maid sisters, two with rather knifey parchment-hued faces ; all very kind and pleasant. A bevy of mounted gentlemen escorted us the last mile, who drew forth two neat speeches of a minute apiece from Sir G. B. and F. Delightful cool house in only two stories ; drawing-rooms opening into each other with doorless doorways and the incessant warm breeze blowing everywhere ; wide corridor running round the whole.
04Jan1872, Impressions of Barbados
GOVERNOR'S HOUSE, BARBADOS, January 4th, 1872.
—Most affably received by the good-natured pursy Governor Rawson, and pleasantly lodged in a clean white temple of the winds looking out upon a very pretty garden. Sir Graham Briggs, with all his blushing honours fresh upon him, came here with us, and was beyond kind in seeing after our luggage and ourselves ; we drove with him in evening along the coast, and very refreshing and enjoyable I found it to have nothing beautiful to look at, only the pleasant curious sight, so utterly unlike Jamaica or Santa Cruz, of excessive cultivation and swarming population. The people are far more ragged than in Jamaica, stark naked children being common ; the numbers are such that they are forced to work for the lowest wages or starve, and thousands ought by hook or crook to be emigrated to S. Lucia or even Jamaica, so as to force up wages and bring about a more decent state of things. However, all looks thriving, and one can't pity nakedness in this climate as one would in England. There is a ceaseless cool breeze and the Gov. announced wintry weather, viz. therm. down to 81 ! Darling Mother Keble [FN: Her sister Lavinia, wife of the Warden of Keble.] 23 to-day.
—Most affably received by the good-natured pursy Governor Rawson, and pleasantly lodged in a clean white temple of the winds looking out upon a very pretty garden. Sir Graham Briggs, with all his blushing honours fresh upon him, came here with us, and was beyond kind in seeing after our luggage and ourselves ; we drove with him in evening along the coast, and very refreshing and enjoyable I found it to have nothing beautiful to look at, only the pleasant curious sight, so utterly unlike Jamaica or Santa Cruz, of excessive cultivation and swarming population. The people are far more ragged than in Jamaica, stark naked children being common ; the numbers are such that they are forced to work for the lowest wages or starve, and thousands ought by hook or crook to be emigrated to S. Lucia or even Jamaica, so as to force up wages and bring about a more decent state of things. However, all looks thriving, and one can't pity nakedness in this climate as one would in England. There is a ceaseless cool breeze and the Gov. announced wintry weather, viz. therm. down to 81 ! Darling Mother Keble [FN: Her sister Lavinia, wife of the Warden of Keble.] 23 to-day.
01Jan1872, News of the Prince of Wales
ON BOARD THE "ARNO," January 1st, 1872.
—England has just passed (as we trust) safely through a great and touching crisis. The English packet, the Nile, brought us letters and papers up to the 16th ; all are full of the P. of Wales ; the feeling most deep and universal. In many places, before the very worst, the National Anthem and "God bless the P. of Wales" have been sung with immense fervour ; business and festivities have been suspended everywhere ; thousands have crowded to read the bulletins issued every few hours, and any reassuring ones have been received with cheers. The Archbp. of Canterbury sent very beautiful prayers by telegraph to all parts of the country on Saturday the 9th ; the first great alarm was felt on the 8th, and the Prince, the Queen, and Prss. were prayed for in all churches and nearly every meeting-house on Sunday : one most touching thing is that the Fire-worshippers in India had special prayers for him. The poor little Princess has been watching and nursing night and day, and the Queen and Prss. Alice have been constantly with him. On Sunday the 10th there was a slight improvement and the Prss. wrote to the Sandringham clergyman in these words : "My husband is better, and I am coming to church. I must watch with my husband, and therefore must leave before the end of the service. Cannot you say a few words for him in prayer early in the service, that I may join with you in prayer for him?" She just crept into church, stayed till the Litany began. Certain wretched Republican addresses have been summarily extinguished by the roughest means ; Odger has been pelted and bonneted, and disloyal speeches drowned by the National Anthem. But indeed the extreme Radicals have mostly shown good and respectful feeling, like the rest of the country. Ireland is full of sympathy. There was a superstitious fear about the 14th proving the fatal day, it being the anniversary of the P. Consort's death 10 years ago ; and the poor P. of Wales passed it in a struggle between life and death : bronchitis came on a day or two before and he was in constant imminent danger of choking. Towds. the morning of the 15th, however, sickness seems to have relieved him, he was able to sleep, and slow improvement set in. Thank God.
—England has just passed (as we trust) safely through a great and touching crisis. The English packet, the Nile, brought us letters and papers up to the 16th ; all are full of the P. of Wales ; the feeling most deep and universal. In many places, before the very worst, the National Anthem and "God bless the P. of Wales" have been sung with immense fervour ; business and festivities have been suspended everywhere ; thousands have crowded to read the bulletins issued every few hours, and any reassuring ones have been received with cheers. The Archbp. of Canterbury sent very beautiful prayers by telegraph to all parts of the country on Saturday the 9th ; the first great alarm was felt on the 8th, and the Prince, the Queen, and Prss. were prayed for in all churches and nearly every meeting-house on Sunday : one most touching thing is that the Fire-worshippers in India had special prayers for him. The poor little Princess has been watching and nursing night and day, and the Queen and Prss. Alice have been constantly with him. On Sunday the 10th there was a slight improvement and the Prss. wrote to the Sandringham clergyman in these words : "My husband is better, and I am coming to church. I must watch with my husband, and therefore must leave before the end of the service. Cannot you say a few words for him in prayer early in the service, that I may join with you in prayer for him?" She just crept into church, stayed till the Litany began. Certain wretched Republican addresses have been summarily extinguished by the roughest means ; Odger has been pelted and bonneted, and disloyal speeches drowned by the National Anthem. But indeed the extreme Radicals have mostly shown good and respectful feeling, like the rest of the country. Ireland is full of sympathy. There was a superstitious fear about the 14th proving the fatal day, it being the anniversary of the P. Consort's death 10 years ago ; and the poor P. of Wales passed it in a struggle between life and death : bronchitis came on a day or two before and he was in constant imminent danger of choking. Towds. the morning of the 15th, however, sickness seems to have relieved him, he was able to sleep, and slow improvement set in. Thank God.
20Dec1871, The Most Dreadful Evening
GIDDY HALL, Wednesday, December 20th, 1871.
—Up among the hills again to (Blank) Hall in a lovely situation ; but a horrible fate was ours—our host, Mr. (Blank), a coarse-looking man, received us at 6, so drunk that he could not speak plain. Mercifully another Farquharson and wife, nice people, dined and kept things decent ; but it was the most dreadful evening I ever underwent. Thank God I have never before seen a gentleman in such a condition ; it gives me a horror and creep beyond words.
—Up among the hills again to (Blank) Hall in a lovely situation ; but a horrible fate was ours—our host, Mr. (Blank), a coarse-looking man, received us at 6, so drunk that he could not speak plain. Mercifully another Farquharson and wife, nice people, dined and kept things decent ; but it was the most dreadful evening I ever underwent. Thank God I have never before seen a gentleman in such a condition ; it gives me a horror and creep beyond words.
18Dec1871, To Work or Be Independent
Monday, December 18th, 1871.
—These little houses are very primitive : one sleeps under unceiled shingle roofs, with unglazed windows fitted only with jalousies ; and these and all the other arrangements make them delightfully cool. We hear various views and opinions. Mr. Royes does without coolies, and is frantic at the proposal to defray a larger proportion than is now defrayed of the expenses of immigration, out of general taxation. He manages his negro population with peculiar tact apparently, for he gets them to work for him all the year round ; how, is a mystery, or indeed how anybody gets any regular work done for wages ; the negroes being able to live even on small acre or half-acre freehold plots ; and to do well on larger ones, which they seem able to buy at a cheaper rate than they can rent them. This must be a great nuisance to the owners of large estates, whose sugar spoils at certain seasons if kept waiting ; but I don't see how they can expect people to work for them who can be independent. Mr. Kerr and Mr. Cooke go in for coolies ; and Mrs. K. has a darling pretty little dot of an Indian boy of 8 in training for a house servant ; he waited famously and seemed as tractable as an angel. The coolies keep quite separate from the negroes ; when they are of high caste, they are troublesome from their customs, but low-caste ones seem only to object to having anything to do with beef, and their children gradually get over this. No regular attempt is made at Christianizing them, but they are glad to be educated by whites. One instance we have heard of a coolie marrying a brown girl.
—These little houses are very primitive : one sleeps under unceiled shingle roofs, with unglazed windows fitted only with jalousies ; and these and all the other arrangements make them delightfully cool. We hear various views and opinions. Mr. Royes does without coolies, and is frantic at the proposal to defray a larger proportion than is now defrayed of the expenses of immigration, out of general taxation. He manages his negro population with peculiar tact apparently, for he gets them to work for him all the year round ; how, is a mystery, or indeed how anybody gets any regular work done for wages ; the negroes being able to live even on small acre or half-acre freehold plots ; and to do well on larger ones, which they seem able to buy at a cheaper rate than they can rent them. This must be a great nuisance to the owners of large estates, whose sugar spoils at certain seasons if kept waiting ; but I don't see how they can expect people to work for them who can be independent. Mr. Kerr and Mr. Cooke go in for coolies ; and Mrs. K. has a darling pretty little dot of an Indian boy of 8 in training for a house servant ; he waited famously and seemed as tractable as an angel. The coolies keep quite separate from the negroes ; when they are of high caste, they are troublesome from their customs, but low-caste ones seem only to object to having anything to do with beef, and their children gradually get over this. No regular attempt is made at Christianizing them, but they are glad to be educated by whites. One instance we have heard of a coolie marrying a brown girl.
17Dec1871, Old Slave-Holder Contempt
HERMITAGE, December 17th, 1871.
—These people are very kind and pleasant, if only they wd. not (some of them) talk of the blacks with the true old slave-holder sort of contempt : whether justified or not by facts, it comes with the worst of grace from any English people, whose forefathers have most of the evils to answer for, having held the poor creatures enslaved, and forbidden their education.
—These people are very kind and pleasant, if only they wd. not (some of them) talk of the blacks with the true old slave-holder sort of contempt : whether justified or not by facts, it comes with the worst of grace from any English people, whose forefathers have most of the evils to answer for, having held the poor creatures enslaved, and forbidden their education.
16Dec1871, Discussing Gov. Eyre
ORANGE VALLEY, December 16th, 1871.
—At dinner (which was very good) Mr. Kerr broke into some excitement and much perspiration abt. Gov. Eyre : all the planters strongly side with him as far as we have seen ; Mr. Royes alone allowing with any candour that the violent measures went on too long. Mr. K. cd. say nothing to the query why 400 blacks were to be put to death in return for 20 whites and after the Govr.'s own official declaration that the rising was quelled : a pause ensued, and he cd. only repeat that the Govr. has saved all the white lives in the Colony. I can't help a creep at the evident implication that 400 blacks may well die in revenge for 20 whites : it reminds one of the expression of Legree in "Uncle Tom's Cabin" : "After all, what a fuss for a dead nigger !"
—At dinner (which was very good) Mr. Kerr broke into some excitement and much perspiration abt. Gov. Eyre : all the planters strongly side with him as far as we have seen ; Mr. Royes alone allowing with any candour that the violent measures went on too long. Mr. K. cd. say nothing to the query why 400 blacks were to be put to death in return for 20 whites and after the Govr.'s own official declaration that the rising was quelled : a pause ensued, and he cd. only repeat that the Govr. has saved all the white lives in the Colony. I can't help a creep at the evident implication that 400 blacks may well die in revenge for 20 whites : it reminds one of the expression of Legree in "Uncle Tom's Cabin" : "After all, what a fuss for a dead nigger !"
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